Eurostar to Strasbourg

St Pancras

Just for a change we decided to go by train. Leaving Sheffield for London we arrived at St Pancras on time. St Pancras is on of the pleasantest stations; a magnificent, rejuvenated Victorian building with lots of cafes and shops. Booking into the Eurostar lounge was a snip - all the usual security and migration checks. The train left on time and arrive at Lille on time. A quick stroll around the station, coffee and a pit stop and we were on the TGV for Strasbourg only 10 mins late.

Strasbourg Gare

Strasbourg station has a really modern glass bubble covering the front facade which is really brilliant - if you like modern architecture.

The best part of travelling by train has to be not having all the bother with luggage compared to air travel.

Will we do it again even though it took a total of 12 hours from door to door? You bet! Trains - I love them ...

The Hotel Le Grillon was 5 min walk from the station. A very pleasant place with helpful staff and a great bar. The bar - La Perestroika - is exactly the kind you want to find in France. Friendly, alive and just the place to unwind after 5 or 6 hours tramping the street. The specialty of the bar was vodka ...

Tea, Cakes and Bunches of Flowers at Taddington

The 272, late, took us to Haveasausage as is our  habit. At the cottage we received a hearty welcome and the dogs, as expected, explored my pockets for tasty treats. It always delights us to find such a welcome only 30 mins from the apartment and  the almost immediate change from urbanity to lush green moorland seems magical.

Another bright summer's day made for a tip to Taddington. The Derbyshire countryside is at it's greenest and best. Taddington's village folk were hosting their Well Dressing and have also decked out the church (St Michael and All Angels, mid 14 C) with flowers.

Tea, cakes and sandwiches, freshly made, were available so, naturally, we tested the fare. Bells were rung their round which made the whole experience seem like a scene from a BBC 19 C period drama. England at it's most English. All that was missing was a cricket match on the green; there is no green.

Back to the cottage for high-tea and a chance to solve the problems of the world ...

Offan a Bigger Surprise Than You Expect

A trip to Lichfield cathedral proved to be one of the most surprising we have had. I didn't feel like driving so we took the National Express coach for a relaxing day out. That was even more sensible because the coach was caught in nose-to-tail traffic, which moved at walking speed, while travelling on the M1 and it was raining - I had the pleasure of sitting back and letting someone else have the stress.

Lichfield city seems to be a very pleasant place with a quiet feel to the town centre which is a mixture of  historic and ultra-modern buildings. We walked into The Close which surrounds the cathedral. The building is truly magnificent. Constructed of fine grained pink-red sandstone sadly, affected by years of wood and coal smoke which gives the building a very dark colour and almost black in places. This doesn't diminish the impressive nature of the place.

Inside is fabulous. Well restored and lit. I can honestly say it left me speech less - a near impossible state. This cathedral is one of the finest you could visit - despite malicious efforts of the Cromwellian Taliban. The east windows are being restored so we didn't see 16th C glass bought by Boothby from Belgium during the early 19th C. The Rood Screen is Victorian and is like a piece of jewelry which looks really beautiful.

We can thank Offa (he of the dike) for getting permission from the Pope to create a Bishopric in 786 AD which started the whole process of creating such a magnificent building.

Calder Valley in Sunshine

A family day out by train - sort of. A christening called the Ellmore Clan to Whalley in the Calder Valley. Sue answered the call and we took the train via Leeds and Blackburn. The country looked great in the sunshine - in other weather most of it would have been bleak to say the least. Chrisening over, we repasted and made our way back to Sheffield. However, due to staffing difficulties, the train to Leeds was cancelled. The Northern Rail Customer Service Officer was as helpful as he could be and he re-routed us, via Bolton and Manchester, back to Sheffield. Now things are not that simple ticket-wise. Our ticket was only valid via Burnley, so we were liable to pay any difference in fare. That's where common sense and reasonability of the three guards on the trains came into play - we were not asked to pay a penny extra. All-in-all excellent service and helpful staff got us back to Sheffield half-an-hour earlier than the train we'd book in the first place.

What was our impression of Leeds, Blackburn, Bolton and Manchester et al? Sadley they seemed to fulfill the worse image you can bring to mind of  "The North" - scruffy urban sprawl. Sheffield seems to avoid this impression for reason which escape us.

Overall a great train ride and very pleasant Clan meeting.

Rain, Thunder and Wind - You Can Bank On IT

What weather - er, it's typical English summer storms. Driving in the poring rain along a winding lane which followed the banks of the river Witham certainly aided my concentration. We reached Kirstead and the rain eventually eased so we could see the little church (St Leonard's) isolated in the fields. Down the gravel track, passing the very limited remains of the old Kirkstead Abbey, brought us to this unusual church which looks a cross between old Saxon/Norman and one you'd expect to find in rural Denmark, Norway or Sweden - it's half stone and half timber. It was locked - naturally. We peeked through the keyholes and go a glimpse of the medieval rood screen but didn't have the heart to crash the wedding that was timed to start in an hours time. On to Woodhall Spa ...

Nothing to see worth stopping there and, rain resuming it's downpour, we went on to Bolingbroke Castle; there is only the remains of the castle. The rain eased - sort of - so we pottered about the ruins until the thunder and lighting encouraged us to retreat to the church at Old Bolingbroke. Part of the church of St Peter and St Paul dates back to the 14th century and it is believed that this rebuilding was paid for by John of Gaunt. This is a very pleasant church and well used; we blundered into a cleaning session which was in preparation for a tea and cake morning planned for the following day. Unfortunately no tea or cakes were on offer, only dusters and cobweb brushes ...

Next stop, Revesby. Tea was on offer and indulgence whetted a interesting conversation with the lady vicar about the history of the church  (St Lawrence) and the Revesby Estate. The estate is still huge and it's Almshouses are still rented out to the more needy. These houses were built by Joe Banks' father - Banks of botanical persuasion and Cook expedition. Another Terra Australis Old Boy location and all by accident ...

Torrents of rain finally washed us back to our temporary lodgings via the essential supermarket ... QED

Country Roads, Churches and a Norman Castle

First stop this morning was at Heydour where we looked for the remains of the Norman motte and bailey. No luck, other than a slight mound covered in ill tended bushes, which seemed to have no legal way of being reached on foot; looking at the aero photo showed the mounds were indeed the motte. The village reeked of ill-gotten-gains; no ordinary mortals here; by-Jove, couldn't have the likes of the unwashed next door. One place called a "farm" was either a house paid for by the government or the weekend retreat of one of the multi-lolly brigade. All too nice and clean ... even the stables looked as though they had just been washed. T'other houses all touted themselves as "hall", "manor" and such like. Out of all the villages we've seen this one look just a bit too quiet, clean and tidy; almost spooky. Just as we started to leave a couple of rustics seems to appear from nowhere to give us the once-over. Odd ... so onward ...

We drove though Aswarby - large church in poor repair (locked) - which was the home of George Bass. On to Morton to be surprised by the church not only being open but huge. The tower, situated at the crossing, seemed more appropriate for an abbey.

On down to Bourne where the thunderstorms started to dampen our perambulations. The Abbey church was founded in 1138 and naturally was built in Norman style. A large building which is well worth a visit.

Castle Bytham

Despite the rain we drove on to Castle Bytham and walked over some farm land to see the remains of a Normal Castle. There is no sign of the stone work that would have existed had the castle been of the size and construction suggested by the historical information posted at the site. The motte and bailey mound is very large and impressive. I'll have to research this site because I'm really sceptical about the posted information.

We drove back to Sleaford via a really twisty route which provided grand views of reaped fields of wheat and rolling hills, plus, as a real surprise, about 12 deer in the middle of the narrow road.

Flinders Surprise Finders

What a summer day! You have to have experience an English summer day; no words can describe the day we have had. Weather wise - perfect! A trip down Motte and Bailey lane took us to the village of Swinehead where we eventually found "The Manwar Ings". This is a large two moated earthwork of Norman age. Overgrown and  isolated but still impressive in terms of the ditch size as well as the panoramic view the motte provided of the surrounding fens.

Next we visited Bicker church, St Swithin's, which has some of the best Norman work in Lincolnshire and triple lancet windows; sadly it was locked. We drove on to Donington which we expected to pass through but the massive church just had to be investigated. The church of St Mary and the Holy Rood was also locked but, fortunately, the keeper of the key had seen us wandering around the outside. That's when we found Mat Flinders.

Part of a stained glass window

We had no idea that Matthew Flinders - the fantastic navigator - was born in Donington in March 1774. His dad was the village surgeon and apothecary and Matthew, age 13, helped pa to bleed and potion the locals before joining the Navy in 1789. The church has what is a virtual shrine to the fellow and Ozers visit by the boat load. The church key holder turned out to be the main architect of Flinders memorial; he had travelled to Oz six time to catalogue Flinders memorabilia and, being a retired geography teacher, was as enthusiastic as any Flinderphile you could meet.


After a pleasant chat we moved on to the village of Horbling and visited St Andrew's church - closed. Lo and behold, Flinders was sent to this church in 1786 as a border at Rev John Shingler's school at a cost of £10-10s a year. Makes you think when you learn that the great Oz explorer (really a Lincolnshire Lad) went to a single room school run by a local vicar. Mat married Ann Chappell, a Lincolnshire Lass from Partney, which is a village a few mile north of Donington; we have yet to visit Partney ...

No Eagles but History by the Shed Load

Driving into Lincoln you can't but be impressed by the cathedral sited on the hill. This is a magnificent building which some claim is the finest of its kind in Europe. We spent an excellent afternoon in the company of one of the cathedral staff and, later, had the pleasure of listening to a Swiss choir practising for Evensong service. No matter how many time I visit the place I'm always impressed - that's been over 55 years now ...

The walk up Steep Hill, which is another old haunt of my childhood, from the town centre, seems to have increased in steepness. The Jews House is one of the historic buildings at the base of the hill and was, for a short time, owned or rented, by my ma's distant family - or so I was told when a snotty nosed brat.

We spent an informative morning at St Mary-le-Wigford church visiting the vicar (Jeremy), an acquaintance we made last year when he was a curate in Sleaford. This guy is not your average priest; ex-military intelligence via the Bosnian conflict and, to be polite, I just say he calls a spade a shovel. He has reopened the church after many years of, more or less, closure to the riff-raff. The place is now a drop-in centre and doing well giving what support it can to those who are outside nice, polite society.

British Heritage have approve plans for a major update of the facilities at the church - kitchen, meeting rooms, photo-voltaic panels and a covered cloister which are add-on structures to the historic building. St Mary's is THE oldest church in Lincoln and there is archaeological evidence that it is possible that there were Iron Age settlements on or near the site.

On our way back to Sleaford we tried to find the remains of a Knights Templar preceptory just south of Cranwell but were put off by the lateness of the afternoon and the farm track that lead to what I thought was the building's roof; the only thing we could see that was remotely like a tower and visible over the hedge rows. This will be investigated again ...

Phew or Maybe Pew - They're 600 Years Old!

It's been a busy two days shuttling from pew to pew. The country lanes and minor roads in Lincolnshire seem to be laced with medieval churches. Our fascination with the historic is almost hysteric with the promise of medieval wall paintings just down the next road. Spires beckon from behind yet another copse of vibrantly green trees just across the fields which are golden with wheat. The weather has been idyllic so that driving is a pleasure - well almost.

Pickworth

The names of the villages where we visited the churches sound of the history of this county:  Brant Broughton, Welbourn, Fenton, Leadenham, Stubton, Beckingham, Corby Glen, Irnham, Silk Willoughby, Pickworth, Quarrington and Lenton.

I find it interesting to conjecture on what happened to the people who sat in the boxed pew that I sit in as I look at the 600 year old Rood Screen set across the Norman arch which itself is partly supported by Saxon Pillars. The remains of the medieval wall paintings on the Clerestory seem sad and unimpressive in terms of colour but their simple graphically nature outstrips the complex designs of the Victorian stained glass now decorating the east window. One church can span the whole of the religious history, and therefore social and political history, of England; that is the fascination of these churches.

Tomorrow... Colonia Domitiana Lindensivm Lindvm ... in search of the Eagle of the Ninth? ...

Well Dressings, Jet Fighters and Cathedral

What a mixture! A week of this and that nearly makes my head spin. We hired a car for the week (Enterprise of course) and had a day trip out looking at the well dressings in Derbyshire.

Bradwell proved to have a splendid array of homemade cakes, fresh sandwiches and pots of freshly brewed tea ... the well dressings were very good too. We wandered the village which, to our surprise, was bigger than we thought - that's to be expected because the only time we've been here before was to by the excellent Bradwell ice cream; sadly this enterprise has gone bust.

Bonsall's well dressings were OK but, being filled with tea and cake, we didn't go for more. The countryside was as lovely as you'd expect for a sunny day in Derbyshire - traffic in places as mad as ever.

A fast, traffic filled drive brought us to our home turf - Lincolnshire. Yesterday we had an excellent lunch at a pub boasting 600 whiskeys which, on inspection, seemed to be mostly empty bottles. Meeting Sue's bro and sis allowed over three hours on pleasant nattering and catching up on family this-and-that. It came as a surprise to lean that bro had spent part of his working life maintaining the GPO equipment housed in the roof of Lincoln cathedral; this explained his interest in the cathedral.

The Real Biltons?

Today, Sunday, has dawned sunny and warm - that soft English summer atmosphere which once experienced is never forgotten. Blue sky and fighter's - that's typical of this neck of the woods; Cranwell is but 10 miles away. The 600 whiskey pub has a folk festival today; free entry supported by arts grants and the BBC amongst others. We'll oil up our rapper knives, polish our clogs and whack our diddle-ohs down to the barn for a gurt olde knees-up with fellow Yellow-Bellies.

"When I was born apprentice in famous Lincolnshire,
T'was then I took to poachin' as you shall quickly hear ...."

A Pocket Full of Biscuits and You Are Home

It's been an interesting week doing all the ordinary things that are necessary to normal life. We're trying to avoid the excellent supermarket that is virtually at our front door. Delicious, mouth watering goodies begging to be bought wafting their fattening vapours through the air conditioning ducts - pure torture I tell you!

We've took the trusty 272 to Have-a-sausage (Hathersage to the non-locals) and visited our friends at their cottage.

Passing the village cricket ground we watched a couple of overs with the sounds of Blackbirds, leather-on-willow, muted shouts of the players and the half-hour chime of the village church clock took us to a different world. Twee or hackneyed that world may be so some but it's a delightful place for me. The walk across the fields was, as ever, really pleasant. There is something about England's countryside that just can't be bettered.

When we arrived at the cottage all three dogs remembered my biscuit pocket which made me feel at home again.

Stoney Middleton Well Dressing

Sunday dawned bright and we mount a 272 to Hathersage where we meet our friends for a day out looking at  Well Dressings at the village of Stoney Middleton in Derbyshire. The main feature was excellent; probably the best we've seen to date. The centre feature was particularly interesting and, being just made, really subtle in colour. Tea and a cake were essential to appreciate the art work.

Picking raspberries, buying plants and having an excellent lunch at our friends' cottage, plus being welcomed by three sheepdogs - we're sure they remember us (our smell probably ...) - and walking over the farm to the Mill Pond, made the day perfect. Some places are very special; this is one of them.

"Watercolour in Britain" Exhibition

The Millennium Gallery Sheffield has an extensive exhibition of watercolours and it's free entry. As always the knowllege-college edificated conservation minded curators have set the lighting so low that you'd be well advised to have your miners lamp handy.  I suppose having such lumination is sort of traditional in this neck of the woods it once being ther mining captital of the UK; no longer the case thanks to Iron-Draws Maggie T - I won't explore that any further lest I offend ...

The exhibition is very good and I particularly enjoyed the less traditional Turnerish reportage pieces which have a more gouche like look. No doubt I'll have a squiz again.

The Continental Markets are in full swing this w/e so we had a wander without buying anything - I think it's still a bit of a novalty to the locals the market being "Continental" in nature - we're funny lot we Brits; admitting that we're a part of the continent (Europe) is still a tad hard to do ...

After trawling the art supply shops we bought most of the basics for daubing and sticking so that we should have no excuse not to be making arty "things". The appartment has a north facing window-wall so the light is excellent for working.

We can also report that being an oldie-with-a-bus-pass is excellent - no car needed ...

Gossip - It's A Social Necessity

It's a pleasure when you have settled-in (well almost) and start seeing friends and doing what you traveled to do. Our friends from Stanage came over for lunch so that we had an grand time catching up on all the gos: dogs as frisky as usual, freezing cold winter, highland cattle smashing rear lights on car, campers, climbers, hang-gliders and walkers still a pain in the backside, Park Authority as daft as ever, Brit pollies totally looney, economy in tatters, but, apart from that all is as it should be.

Yesterday provided an excellent lunch at the Fusion Cafe and magging session with Tim Rose. I dropped into an evening Life Drawing session at Tim and Rebbeca's studio. Walking from the city centre in the twilight at 9.30 pm proved to be a little scary - I only saw 6 or 7 people so that the streets felt deserted; no doubt the pubs and resturaunts were full and TVs well goggled at. It always surpises me how quiet a city becomes after 7 pm, that is unless you trawl the clubbing and boozing areas - I don't ...

Manuals Manuals Manuals ...

So here we are in a minimalistic Italian chic apartment with all the bells and whistles you could ask for - well nearly all. Trouble is you have to know how to use them! Every one of the appliances is either Italian or German. Even the hotplate has a mind of it's own ... "Use the manual", you say. We would if there was one. Enter the Internet. Not so fast on the assumed answer to the problem. After an hour of key tapping I found one for the washing machine - in English thank God. That mean our smalls and larges can be washed but what about the dishwasher? I think we'll resort to the old tried and tested method for the time being because it took nearly three hours to wash an experimental load on Eco - whatever that means ...

The underfloor heating manual is in English but I haven't had time to enroll at the university yet - I thought the course "Deciphering  Electrical Jargon for Idiots" seems appropriate. What is an "optional-selectable-circuit-linked-networked-isolated-area-pseudo-manual-thermostatic-sensor-timer-switch with automatic-sensor-override" anyway? I just want to turn the heating off ...

Just to confound the occupant the architect also included an air-recycling-extraction system. Yes, that's understandable since the huge windows are best kept closed - traffic noise as you would expect in the centre of a large city. But, there are four switches - two marked boost and the others discovered by experiment. No manual - I've figured it'll take a week or two to find out exactly how it all works.

I had fun taking the garbage to the bin locker which is in the basement. No problem; until I let the door on the locker close behind me. I needed the electronic key to re-open the door! After a second's thought I had the high-tec solution. Grab the handle, swear like a stoker and give the door an almighty heave - bingo! I escaped the clutches of the garbage monster ...

What's next ... stay tuned, we have to collect the post today (where is the dratted post box ... ?)

Back to S11

We moved into the flat without any fuss. A roast dinner and a kip started us on the road to de-jet-lag; I really dislike waking up at 5am thinking its breakfast time!

Enterprise car rental was as efficient as ever and we were on our way to Sleaford by lunch time Saturday. A couple of pints of good English ale while bro and I sat in the late afternoon sunshine at the local pub and we solved the problems of the world put me onto the road of recovery.


We had a really excellent w/e with sis and bro; too much food and loads of laughs. It felt as if we'd not been back to Oz for the past 8 months - that always surprises me. Sunday morning was taken up with fixing a computer; people WILL fiddle and press the wrong buttons ... I have to report that bro has probably infected me with a curiosity about golf ... where do I find the antidote?

Loading the car with our "things" we had a safe and pleasant trip back to the pad; except for a three roundabout intersection at Newark which bedevils even the locals! Yes, we went round the whole messy thing twice! It's the roads signs; they are hopeless! 

It took little time to unpack and poke "things" into their new resting places - finding them when we want them will prove, as always, to be a bit of a lottery until we get used to their hiding places. "Where's the ......?" "Don't ask me you stowed it away!

After shopping for the "odds-and-ends" that are always missing it was a delight to sit down to dinner and look out of the huge windows at Sheffield in the late evening sunshine. Very Lowry with a tough of Dr Who.

All in Twenty Four Hours

Taking the Keisei line from Ueno to Narita airport brought us to the airport in a packed one and a half hours. We'd checked in on the internet so it was a snip to off load cases and retire to the cafe for an extra breakfast. Flight JL 401 took off 5 mins late - that'll never do for the locals! Twelve hours of bordome later we landed at Heathrow - only 15 mins late. A quick hop on the hopper and we were safely tucked into our room at the Comfort hotel. A pint and a shower to revived spirits followed by a very tasty dinner ended a long day's travel. All went swimmingly so what's to moan about? Nowt!

Into beddy-bys and a comatose sleep - that is untill 4 am when our bio-clock decided to kick-in and tell us that is was really breakfast time. Ignoring the impulse to eat the oatmeal coloured bedspread we forced ourselves to go back to dream land.

A quick continental and a second hop on the hopper followed by an hour-and-ten on the Piccadilly line sufficed to deliver us to St Pancras (who?). Tickets for Sheffield dutifully printed out of the machine so we mounted the Midland Rail Iron Horse for a quick two and a half hours nursing our cases and bags - there was no adiquate luggage storage.

What a strange feeling being back in Sheffield. Have we been away? Doesn't feel like it. We were walking through the town centre and were hailed by Andrew (he of Andrew's Cafe); travel the world and be well know by cafe owners - what a reputaion! On to the hotel and establish camp - again.

What next? Surley it's obvious - supermarket (M&S) and buy dinner ...

Tokyo Metro, Temples and Electric City

After a slight panic at the Post Office - I  used the wrong pin for my card and thought we'd be cashless! A senior moment which I don't think I'll repeat - we got the Ginza Line to Suehirocho and hooffed it to  the Kanda Myojin Shrine. This proved to be a large and very active shrine which was winkled between the multi-storied buildings. There was a ceremony going on and it was interesting to hear and see two of the priests playing traditional Japanese wind instruments.

Wandering on to the Yushima Seido took 5 mins but it look closed. Wrong - the gate was around the corner hidden from our view by the public loo. It is extensive and is now a shrine dedicated to Confucius. It was originally a private school opened in 1630.

As we left Yushima Seito we could see the dome of  Nicholai-do which is a Russian Orthodox Church. Time and gasping for a coffee, we pressed on to Electric City where we had an appointment with Mr Donut who provided sustenance in the form a of a strawberry and cream namesake.

I had a bit of an electronic relapse and drooled over several Sony HDV newsmedia cameras, Casio language translation what's-its and stroked an iPad (several times ) ...

I dragged myself onto the Yamanote line and we stopped of at Ueno where we had a lovely meal of tempura, miso, rice, noodles and barley tea. Walking around we came across a temple we had no idea existed - it's slap-bang in the middle of a very busy shopping area where the streets are filled with stalls so it's like a street market. The Marishiten Tokudaiji is very active and the centre of a major festival which takes place in late July.

Time to head home meant a quick coffee at a Doufor cafe where the staff seem to have got to know what we want. That brought us to the end of  our last day in Tokyo - well nearly because we had to visit the super market to get some delicious food for dinner.

The final, final of the day - washing cloths and packing ....

Let's Take A Train Ride ...Again.

Just to do something a bit different we decided to take a tip to the Eastern Tama area which is just outside Tokyo to the west. Yes to the west; Tama is to the west but we went to it's east ...

It's a subway ride from Ueno on the Yamanote line to Tokyo station and then on to the Chuo line (Rapid Service) to Tachiwara. We thought we had to exit the subway at Tokyo station and buy a ticket for a JR line - a train ticket. Well no, that was where we made a slight error so that we only had a 190 Yen ticket which payed for the Yamanote subway - hope you are keeping up; there will be questions later ... Not to worry because there are Fare Adjustment machines; insert the ticket you have when you get where you want to be and pay the difference - no fuss; no drama.

At Tachiwara we caught the monorail to Takahata Fudo and then walked to the Takahata Fudoson temple where we wandered around the various buildings. Very peaceful and well used; it's always a surprise to step of a busy road into a quiet oasis.

Hunger began to gnaw and restaurants/cafes/eateries abound almost everywhere to sate said gnaw.

The eatery was inside the Keio Rail Station - not the JR Monorail we'd arrived by - so we took pot-luck to Fuchu to visit Ookunitama jinga shrine. This is one of, if not the, oldest of the Shinto shrines in the Tokyo area. Fuchu has a tree-lined street leading to the main gate of the shrine. The trees are huge and give the immediate area a really pleasant atmosphere.

Mid afternoon means coffee - air conditioned comfort and a little rest.

Time to head back to Tokyo. The Keio line took us back to Shinjuku but we made a silly mistake with the ticket so had to use the Fare Adjustment machine when we got there. A packed station didn't seem at all claustrophobic mainly because people don't push and shove or shout at each other. The last leg for the day meant the Yamanote line from Shinjuku to Ueno - packed train but air conditioned and quiet.

Home at last! I'll leave the next bit to your imagination ...

Monorail to Odaiba

A quick visit to the cafe - morning coffee - and onto Ueno to catch the Yamanote subway to Shimbashi. A quick change of train and a vista-rich run on the Yurikamome monorail took us to Tokyo Big Sight - a ginormous conference and exhibition centre. The whole of the Odaiba area is awash with fantastic modern architecture as well as the usual dock-side mess. Shops? Er, more than a shopperholic could cope with! Plus much, much, more including a wedding village, maritime museum (shaped like a ship!) and, most wierd, a sewer museum - honto!

We walked through the skyscrapers to Palette Town and ventured into Venus Fort - a three floor of every type of shop plus restaurants. Each floor is fashioned after a Italian street style with ceiling that have a sky-like quality. The lighting is such that you really begin to feel like you are walking down a street during late afternoon or early evening. There is even a real fountain in one of the larger "nodes". All very spaceship like or a film set.

Next to this monster shopping centre was the huge "Maga Web" Toyota car showroom and a gigantic Big Wheel.

Since it was Sunday the Anime and Manga people (Cosplay fashion) were out in force photographing each other. Quite a sight and each person must have spent hours and loads of yen getting the costumes they were wearing. It was difficult to tell if the boys were girls or t'other way around.

Catching the mono-rail back to Shimbashi allowed us to cool down and drop into a quick noodle shop for lunch. We hopped onto the subway to Roppongi but were disappointed by the park and an outbreak of Yankitis. So it was onto the Hibiya line for a restful trip back to Ueno.

End of the wandering for the day naturally meant - you guessed correctly - supermarket, food and beddy-byes.

Narita Gion Matsuri

It took about 1 hr 15 min in air conditioned comfort on the Keisei Line to go from Ueno to Narita city. The wall of heat (about 32 C) sort of hit us when we got off the train. We wandered into town and broke the first rule of the culturally aware traveler - MacDonnald's for a loo pit stop. I have to admit the coffee was OK but the loo came as a surprise. Let me explain ... Maccer's usually has a nice clean loo so we old crispies find it more pleasant than the usual grotty holes-in-the-ground that seem to plague most of the worlds public places. This Maccer's is in Japan so there is a little surprise in store for the unwary round-eye ... no not a squatter. A fully fledged, electronic throne! DON'T fiddle with the buttons unless you want to get soaked, de-odourised or hot-air-blown. I kid you not. Once, I had to search for the power socket to turn the thing off ... not a happy bunny at that point in time. Rested but definitely shaken and stirred!

Back to reality ...

We walked through the old town and had a quick look at the Shinshoji Temple. After watching a couple dashi (floats) being hauled up the hill we decided to have lunch. A very pleasant restaurant with loads of fans to cool us down. Tempura and cold noodles - excellent!

Late afternoon and a temperature in the high 30's persuaded us to retreat to the air conditioned train back to Ueno.

Last, and obviously, ... the supermarket for a health dinner.

Walking, Walking, Walking - Asakusa and Ueno

It's the Morning Glory Festival at Asakusa, so off we went, hot foot, to see the plants via a cafe - what else. Loads of people - naturally - and food stalls. All the plant stalls were loaded and it seemed the price was fix across the board.

Catch the Ginza Line metro to Ueno so we can wander the streets looking for - yes, you guessed right - lunch. Lovely tempura and cold sorba noodles. I desisted looking at the iPad again at the 6 floor electronics store opposite the station; buying "out of country" is a bit daft because, if there's a problem with the kit, service guarantees are often difficult to use even if the product has world-wide distribution; I made this mistake and didn't like the hassles.

On to the Tokyo Met only to find that it's closed for restoration until 2012. A quick glance at our well worn map showed that there were several temples in Taito-ku that we hadn't visited, so we legged it in their general direction. That proved to feel a lot further than it measured - aged limbs and a the need of coffee probably explained the dragging of feet.

Onward back to Ueno Park and a cafe of choice seemed to recharge feet batteries. A final sortie to the super market, where we were assaulted by heaps of delicious food, ended the day - a total of 5 hours hoofing in all. Temperature 28 C and 100% humidity with light, intermittent rain sort of oiled the limbs for the whole escapade!

Watercolours Everywhere

 We had a nice restful day just pottering from cafe to cafe via the odd shop - I do like iPads; must be loosing my  grip on my wallet! A visit to the Ueno Royal Museum which had a Tokyo waterclour exhibition - a huge number of paintings most of which were worth hanging; some traditional others contemporary in technique. A good few hours in the cool and looking at some really lovely works.

The vast sum of 160 Y took us by the Ginza Line to Asakusa where we indulged ourselves by visiting two super markets, buying enough grub for an army (a small private army of four) and - yes, we have no self control - a light repast at Mr Donut!

Now we are filled to the brim with fresh food and sashimi so it's time to turn on the lunatic Japanese TV and sit goggle-eyed wondering what the Devil we're watching ...

JAL Does It Again!

After a 4 AM start we had breakfast in the new terminal facilities - very nice architecture so it actually looks like an international terminal (at last). The aircraft took off exactly on time from Sydney and landed on the dot in Tokyo. We were suitably filled with food and drink - I do love Sake! A quick 55 min train ride in air conditioned comfort brought us to our favorite hotel - The Oak in Asakusa - well almost; it's a 10 min stroll from station to door.

What a welcome! The people on the desk greeted us like old friends ... that's the reason for sticking to somewhere you know that fits your bill. Temperature outside 26 C and light rain; inside a cool 21 C. Next stop the supermarket and loads of lovely nosh. And so to dream land ...

I watched "Battle of the Titans" and "Alice In Wonderland" on the flight and thoroughly enjoyed both - maybe it was the GnTs and Sake ...

10 - 9 - 8 - 7 - ...

Only a few days to go and mission control has begun the countdown sequence. Packing! Who do you know that likes packing? What to put in, on and out ... more angst ... but you know you want more ... That's the beauty of travelling it shakes the tree and gives the old brain a workout: "Did I redirect the mail? What about changing the insurances? Do we leave the water on? Have I got all the medications I need? Have I got enough foreign currency? Embrocation; where's the bottle of embrocation for my knees?... Why the devil am I doing this? ... Pass the whiskey please ..."

This is a test

test test test

Booking A Trip Sure Wears Me Out

So we decided to go to Strasbourg for a few days in August. Three hours later with the computer having apoplexy and sweat dripping from my fingers and brow, I managed to book everything. What with passwords for every site and booking payments I think I've covered every combination of birthdays, weddings and funerals plus dogs names and favourite teachers and school subjects I've ever known. That's the internet Freddy Boy; quick as a flash so long as you don't actually want to do something a bit complicated.  I think it's time for a little nap ...

What? There's No Butler!

By Jove, things have taken a queer turn. From hovel to the recognition we deserve - yes it's Bilton Manor. Being a Fitz has some compensations but there are some drawbacks - there is no butler! Well, we had to say no. Sorry, just couldn't take up residence without one. I say, it's just not done. What would the people at the hunt say. No. We will do the right thing and take up residence in a modest apartment adjacent to a high class purveyor of  quality victuals and fine wines. Between you and me, modern plumbing and under-floor heating has advantages that just can not be overlooked.

A Handyman's Project

All it needs is a lick of paint and a tidy-up. Situated in a quiet rural location this prime property only needs some TLC from a discerning tenant. Ideal for a holiday hide-a-way and priced to go. Don't miss this exceptional opportunity to experience a unique life-style.

I'm getting the a distinct feeling of PANIC!!

Anyone Got Space for a Small Tent?

We're beginning to panic a tad. No flat found to date, but the folk we're dealing with say there's no problem - yet. We've got a nice little Wendy House stored away so the last resort is to find space under a bush in the Botanic Gardens with the Homeless or, failing that, there's a nice park bench or two ...

Watch Out For The Extras!

I thought I'd have a qiz at flight availability EMA to Amsterdam in early August. Why? I received an email touting cheap flights with BMI and August is a birthday month. I started to get very excited and reached for my clogs, clay pipe and silly bargeman's hat. But, yes, you guessed it, then there's the extras. The initial return ticket price for 2 pax was less than 8 GBP. Add: taxes, seat allocation, 1 check-in bag, and insurance and the price came out at 165 GBP! We thought we'd forgo the priority boarding and use of the airport lounge facilities which would be another handful of shekels.This price was at least 80 GBP cheaper than over-the-counter prices.

So much for cheap flights. The Devil, as always, is in the detail; read small print ...

Soooo Boring Sydney

Oh dear I've committed sedition! That's if finding Sydney boring is the criterion - the trouble is we're not really Ozzers; we don't booze, do drugs or like sport. I've given up on the Oz theatre including film; it's supposed to be professional but I just can't see it ... something always seems to be lacking or maybe - and more likely - I'm not all that keen on year 12 humour and I've seen so much "Gay" stuff over too many years masquerading as entertainment to be even mildly shocked. As I say, Sydney seems so boring and it's getting scruffier each year.

We went to the Gal NSW to see Archibald et al and, honestly, the shows were poor. I suppose you have to take into account the desire to present something controversial but, really, there is so much of  not-leaving-your-mates-behind  that things get very stale. A few of the chosen portraits were excellent but the rest ... er ... crap. The Wynne had a couple of notable pieces and the Sulman was, as ever, a complete mystery - what were the selectors on? This was the Sulman winner. Explain it if you can. Still, it's all good for the arty-farty crowd I'm sure. The show at the Ervin gallery has some good work; much better than some of the stuff selected for the "real" shows.

Didn't see so many ugly, fat lessos in Newtown this time. Has there been a cull?

Tickets. Get Your Tickets Here!

That's done and dusted and we're a lot lighter in the purse. So it's off to Tokyo in July for all stations ... we still don't know!

Sydney ... not as exciting as ...

Up to Sydney for the w/e. Another painting delivered and expected to be reject by the dunks at the GNSW; got to be in it etc etc. Weather was disgusting - hot and steamy. I don't think I've seen so many grossly over weight, tattooed and unimaginably ugly people (sadly women) on the streets before. Must have be an ugly's convention in Newtown. Yes, I know it's not PC, Christian or "nice" to make such a comment but you had to be there to believe it was actually the case.

Best part was going to a small, noisy cafe which had excellent Italian food and a splendid Thai restaurant. Plus, a demonstration of Japanese wood block printing. The printer lives in Tokyo and has been printing wood blocks for over 50 year; he was expert!

Shifting Sands ...

All has changed ... the best laid etc ... so watch this space.

Planning, Planning ...

Plans so far:
The itinery for Italy looks like:

Venice (maybe not this year .. debate rages ...)
Vicenza
Ferrara
Bologna
Moderna
Reggio Emillia
Palma
Genoa

Which seems to me to be a delightful two/three week prospect.

Finding a furnished appartment in Sleaford seems to be almost impossible - we'll have to rent and buy a few sticks to fill the place ... or ...  it'll be Sheffield again - and the buses are free to old folk like me! That means we'll have weekend trips to Prague, Vienna and Amsterdam plus Delf - well it's only filthy lucre ...

Plus, the reason for being in England's green and pleasant, loads of outing to the Peaks and sundry cathedrals, churches, galleries, archaeological sites and such. All this and more. Don't forget there's the visits to Japan each way from Sydney to London.

I still need a project though ...

Oooo Er - Maybe It Is Time to Fly ...

I'm getting that itchy feeling again - in my feet! Keep those mucky thoughts to yourself! Where will it be this time? We'll travel at the beginning of July so I don't fancy sticky, hot weather in Japan, Korea or China which were on the list for the out-bound trip. Dubai equally too hot. America - you have to be joking! It looks like a couple of days in Narita village, just to break the flight to London or some other European city. Then, at least three months in the UK followed by one or two months wandering about Europe and Asia on the way back to Horsetraileeyor. Details about our flat in England are lacking 'cos it seems impossible to find one! So ... it mabe dear Sheffield yet again - ain't life hard for us old folk!

New Year ... 2010 .. Wow I'm that old!

I wish you all a safe and prosperous New Year!


Not that some poor souls will get the chance because of other folk's greed and stupid political, ethnic, nationalistic or religious ideas. It puzzles me why anyone prefers death, starvation, sickness and turmoil over quiet sufficiency. Still thats Folks Freddy Boy ...

Wow! What a lovely present!

I'm double gob-smacked with delight! What a splendid Chrissy gift from my partner-in-crime. Fanttastically great!

Happy Birthday JC! Well sort of ...

Happy holiday to you all! Here, in the back of colonial beyond, we will be having a peaceful and quiet time free of all the usual trappings we associate with Chrisymas. No children, party balloons, turkey, fruit pudding with brandy sauce, silly paper hats or excess booze. "Oh, how Humbug" I here you cry. No my dears, it's chrisymas every day as far as we're concerned. Just think, not a day goes by that we haven't got plates full of good food, water in abundance, so much so that we can have flushing loos, plus a roof, bed and neighbours that don't tote guns. The roads aren't lined with beggars and we can go into town without fear of being robbed or hijacked. Who, for Christ's sake, needs Christmas when we have so much?

It's The Tapes I Tell You ...

It is all very well wander about pointing a video camera hither and yon but the end result is crossed-eyes and a suppressed urge to scream! Eight out of seventeen HDV tapes have been edited, tweaked and rendered and I am now virtually senseless and totally disenchanted with the whole experience. That's what you get Freddy boy if you don't stay at home locked in a cultural cupboard!

Back to the editor ...

Scorching Sun to Wet N Cold ...

Yesterday was so hot it'd sear a side of beef but today it's cold and damp. That's weather for you. All this talk of Global Warming and, oo er, climate change makes me think that we've lost sight of reality. I can assure any of you that climate IS unstable and after 65 year of experience, north and south hemisphere, I'll bet my last brass farthing that it's going to change and change again. Oh dear what a naught man I am! A non-believer of The Gospel according to St Scientist. So, today I'll put on a jumper and tomorrow I may be under a Banyan in me nothins trying to put up with a furnace atmosphere.

Woof Woof - Its the Boys again ...

A few pics of my favorite football team.

And their coach, Mr Flint

These are the star players of Cottage United, that formidable team of  gatherers that not stray ball is safe!

I just love 'em!

I'm Turning Japanese. I Really Think So ...

Here were are at the Oak, Asakusa (Tokyo). Two old farts gadding about ...

Ooo, Er Ain't The Sunshine Great ...

After a mad, dashing-about on Monday, my car is tested, taxed and waxed. I must have walk miles to and from offices and garage but it was all done in glorious sunshine.

Most of the "house" has been unpacked; what a load of rubbish we hold dear to our bosoms; do we really want the nick-knack from long gone Uncle Fed? Not that I ever had an Uncle Fred. Questions upon questions and all about "things" we didn't even know we had let-alone that we looked at regularly. What silly sentimental duffers we all are ...

Now it's down to video editing. I can't remember the name of some of the places; the places I remember but the names? I suppose it's a case of adopting  a "roses and names" philosophy ...

So the music plays and we dance on. Why? It's a mystery to me!

Horsetrailyer - Kulture Free Zone At Last

Well possums, here we are in Horsetrailyer again. Sun a-shining and all the convicts are safe in their cells. What a difference. One minute we were in London, the next it was Tokyo and then Sydney. I dropped by Travelscene to check on return fares just to keep a bit of perspective.

So, now my car is unregistered and, because of the rules I have to return the number plates and go though all the hoops again - same car but thats colonials Freddy Boy.

We have been blown away by the reception our convict friends have given us - that really makes us feel very privilege. Lots to unpack and re-do which is good for old farts like us; you can get too bogged down with "things" being just-so and unable to cope with change. "Oh, er, its' seven minutes past eleven! I have to have my tea; one and a half sugars and a splash of milk; Earl Grey mind; with two digestives - the ones in the white jar Uncle Bert gave me for my 21st ..." Time for walkies ....

Now its time for a little rest while I process all the video footage and book another trip.

Chrysanthemum Me!

A little ride on the Yamanote people moving iron horse brought us to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. This is, more or less, in the centre of Tokyo and is one of the largest gardens. It was the first day of the chrysanthemum show. I never saw such huge displays of huge flowers. Some sort of sculptured intomulti-bloom thingies; one plant and hundreds of flowers in a sort of wire corset. One display was of hundreds of perfect huge individual blooms. Stunning as you would expect just because its Japan.

The weather seems far from what we expect of autumn - sunny and 24 deg C.

About 5 hours of walking and God knows how many steps leaves us completely knackered!

Tokyo means a 7pm Bedtime!

Twelve hours of flying makes my arms somewhat tired which means I fell asleep at 7 pm!

JAL once again proved that its the worlds best airline and systems were all functioning well from London hotel to Tokyo hotel so hurrah for the little people who keep the whole going - still puzzles me that the self appointed "execs" think its them what make things go. Don't get me onto my soap box about the workers versus the suits else you'll think I'm a socialist ...

A quick wander around Asakusa, a vist to Mr Doughnut and the super market and that's us totally stuffed for the day - hence the 7pm beddy-byes.

Nighty-night campers ....

Halloween ... Shefield Style

We walked to town yesterday and were surprised to see a full-blown fair in the centre. Rides and stalls of all descriptions, food and masses of people. Families, groups of friends and loads of uni students most of which were dressed up for Halloween. It was good to see the people take over the city centre and having a good time. It's call "Fright Night" and touted as Sheffield's Halloween Party. We reckon Sheffield council are doing the right thing to let this sort of event happen; it lifts peoples spirits and give us all a break from the doom-and-gloom that seems to dominate life these days. Best of all, it seems to be a real family affair.

Strike, Strike , Strike ....

What isn't working today? Buses, Post, and fire services (the folks who put fire out, duh ..) Well it is coming up to Christmas. It's all cleaning and packing ready for Transportation. Not that I'm too happy about that but it's inevitable at this point in time. Ho hum ...

Sheffield has been a good place to hang my hat; convenient for transport and all other aspects of day-to-day doings. I wouldn't want to settle here for good; too big, hectic and noisy. Yes, we old fogies like a bit of peace and quiet plus absence of over iPoded kiddies. Poor souls don't seem to exist outside the virtual techno-world. What? Actually speak to other denizens of the forest? You have to be joking! That would require social skills which are just not cool ...

What's next ...

Misty, Moisty, Morning Peaks

The 272 took us to Fox House where we started a 10 km waddle over the peaks. It was cool and very atmospheric; just the sort of thing you'd expect in a scene from Wuthering Heights. Disappointingly there was no Heathcliff to greet us at the National Trust cafe at the Longshaw Estate.

A liberal application of tea and excellent cakes recharged our energy for further waddling. Onward and upward!

The study 272 took us home after a great afternoon out. A notice in the bus informed us that there would be no drivers' strike this week!

But, Is It Art?

One of the pieces in the Irish show was many sheets (A4) with internet site translations of an original piece of prose in English through several languages and back into English. Like This:

These are the instructions to change the battery in your mobile telephone. Read them carefully before you start.

Queste sono le istruzioni per cambiare la batteria in vostro telefono mobile. Colto loro prima di voi inizi con attenzione.

Celles-ci sont les instructions pour changer la batterie dans vos téléphone mobile. Cueilli les avant vous débuts avec attention.

Ezek az utasítások változtatni az akkumulátor, meg mobiltelefonja. Előtt összegyűjtött ön csak a figyelmet.

Diese Anweisungen änderten die Batterie Ihr bewegliches Telefon. Gesammelt vor Ihrem nur zur Aufmerksamkeit.

Тези инструкции промяна на батерията вашия мобилен телефон. Събират преди тяхното само на вниманието.

Cambio de estas instrucciones de la batería su teléfono móvil. Recogido antes de su solamente tention.

Promena ovih uputstava baterija svoje pokretne telefon. okupili su se pre nego što mu samo pažnju.

د دغو احکامو د موبايل ټليفون د تليفون له لارې لېږد وړ دي. و غونډوي هغه په وړاندې كېږي يوازې د توجه کيږي.

Den mobiltelefon, løst. Samlet er mot de måste uppmärksammas.

The cell phone, has been solved. Total is against the Attention.

I ask this: Do the several sheets of A4 pinned to a wall constitute a piece of "Art"?

Ah, That Was Great For Me ...

Two excellent weeks walking in Venice; plus the odd boat trip just to save the legs. Excellent! I am never disappointed by the churches and buildings in this unique city. Even the mass of tourists is made up for by the absence of cars. So many cruise ships; there can be six a day each with 3000 plus lemmings packed into them. BUT! Ignore all that and it's a great place.

The Biennale was, as expected, a load of old and new rubbish. Best was the Italian show. The Iranian show was one of the best. The Australian was not that interesting and the Brit show was just crap. We had great time visiting all but three of the shows through out the city; a nice moan and loads of coffee! What was noticeable was the lack of placards explaining the meaning of works in totally undecipherable language - a great improvement. Mind you, reading the handouts was still like wading through verbal treacle.

The trip back to Sheffield couldn't have gone any better; all connections worked perfectly and the various staff were excellent. It took: a boat, a plane, three buses and a total of 13 hours! There we are, another great experience which wouldn't be possible without the hum-drum, daily grind of ordinary folk. So much for celebrity; what useless swankers they are ...

If you want to rent an apartment in Venice try: www.casanpietro.it we have never been disappointed.

Venice - Fantastic!

Here we are at the apartment in Venice. Snug little place out of the way. Weather is perfect and, despite the crowds in town, it is as lovely as ever - timeless but modern!

Some Biennale art seen so far is frankly crap and the write-up sheer tosh. It's what you expect but, fingers crossed, there will be something worth looking at somewhere in the exhibition.

Hey Ho ... Four Hour Wait ... That's Travel.

There is nothing more boring than sitting in a regional airport waiting for a flight. Now four hours seems to pass reasonably fast so long as you are a sleep; I'm not and the cafe not that good. Marmaduke reads her book so that's no problem. Maybe I should turn into a football fan and sink 8 prints of Wife Beater so I can make a complete fool of myself on the plane. No, that wouldn't get me a gold star. Most annoying is the repetitive taped instructions about security. Rap by the paragraph! A new art form ...

Wow! Its Cousin Harry!

A day out in the country; lovely, sunny weather. Time to visit Tatershall Castle - last time I was actually 'young'. St Michael's next door is also worth a visit; in we went, looked and left. Lunch under a willow - a English late-summer day; perfect. Until ... the earth moved for us.

Nearby RAF Conningsby is where the Battle of Britain Memorial Flight is based. So, when our quite picnic was blasted by the sound of kerro burning, we were delighted to see a Eurofighter (Typhoon) going into a a full-burn hammer head in the azure, Lincolnshire sky. A quick dash to the car park where we watched a mouth-opening display of aerobatics that would have put the average air display to shame. Brilliant times 1000!

We jumped into the car and

drove - carefully but at speed - to the airfield where kindred loonies stood, binoculars deployed and waiting for the aircraft to return. It did and taxied passed the admiring group; they waved and, you guessed it, the pilot, who was clearly visible grinning his teeth off, waved back. Hey, he's family so it's natural to be chuffed! I wondered if this was history (certainly my boyhood) repeating it's self. Afterall we were in Lincolnshire.

600 Plus Churches

Lincolnshire seems to be littered with Satanic Mills. We've been to most of those in Lincolnshire which are looked after by the Churches Conservation Trust and more as we passed them on our travels.

It makes me realise how much we, today, have forgotten all the personal effort and suffering that brought about what we now regard as our 'right'. One place has a human history that dates back to pre-Roman settlement and, there in that one building and it's surroundings, you can still see the various developments of the habitation. That is in a small village; not a 'historic' town. Just ordinary folk doing their 'thing'; nothing has really changed ... we only think it has.

More to come ...