The Sound Of A Merlin

Brilliant sunshine made it compulsory to take a trip into Derbyshire to visit Old Mr Flint an his boys.

Walking from the village to the cottage took us past a new-build cottage which has been in the build stage for about four years. Fortunately, the owner and two of the builders were about and I had the cheek to ask to look around the place. The cottage has been designed by a well a well known architect and is in keeping with the traditional Derbyshire style, but it is a modern interpretation of that style. The site is in the Peak Park which means that the building regulations have dominated the building process ... as always. The design of the living area is open plan with an exposed roof structure consisting of wooden spars tensioned by stainless steel rods. The whole effect is like a mixture of ships rigging, urt and crooked barn. It looks excellent. No doubt some will think the building is inappropriate for the area ... we loved it.

We had a very enjoyable time at the cottage, with a pig-out afternoon tea and great conversation with our friend. The boys munched their biscuits, chased balls and generally made me run up and down the fellside.

At the farm Bill set the boys to working some sheep while we waited for the arrival of a Spitfire which had been book for a fly-over. The local squire, Sir Hugh, was having a do at Brookfield Manor in order to raise money in support of the Brit troops overseas. The aircraft flew down the valley. What a fantastic sight! If you've never seen one of these aircraft and heard the sound of the engine ... what can I say? A couple of wing-overs and it was gone; no doubt back to Coningsby where the BB Memorial Flight is kept.

We caught the 272 back to Sheffield, the driver of which was obviously in training for some sort of rally ... you could not have driven a car any faster ... quite exhilarating!

Conisborough - A Day In The Sun

Conisborough is one of those ancient villages which have a history which is lost in the mists of time. Conyngsburgh ( King's Borough ) was a settlement at the time of the Roman Occupation. The village's late 20th century history is one of poverty, unemployment and social disintegration due to both economic and political events - the Miners' Strikes during Herr Thatcher's Reich being the most indelibly written. Today's impression is more optimistic. Two important historic building are sited in the centre of the village. These were the reason for our trip.

Conisborough Castle is probably the finest example of a Norman Keep to be found in the UK. The grounds and have some remains of moats and walls, but the Keep is outstanding. The facilities provided by English Heritage are disappointing. Views of the surrounding countryside from the top of the Keep are worth the climb; there is a spectacular viaduct across the valley a mile away.

The church of St Peter stands right at the centre of the village and has done so since at least 740 AD. The earliest known building dates from pre-Saxon times. The condition of the present church is excellent; you can see the various stages of construction. In particular the Norman Chancel wall is impressive if only because of its age. A small Romano-British carving in the wall of the early 14th century porch and some medieval glass in a window in the south wall of the chancel are worthy of note.

It is interesting to reflect that the Commander of the Roman York Garrison, Flavius Valerius Aurilius Canstantimus, became Emperor Constantine of Rome whilst still at York in 324 AD; Conisborough is in York Shire (Yorkshire) and no more than a day's march from York. Remembering Constantine's Christian Decree suggests that Christianity has been active at this church for well nigh over 1600 years! I posit that, had Constantine had made his decree whilst he was still in York, that the Roman Catholic Church might have traded under a quite different label.

I think "The Holy Yorkshire Catholic Church" has a certain ring to it. The whimsical idea that all priests should have to be expert cricketers is even more tempting. Gone are the Amice, Alb, Cincture, Maniple, Stole, Chasuble, Cope, Dalmatic, Surplice and Biretta, to be replaced by gleeming whites, wicket keeper's pads and cloves and a County Team Cap. Add the the rest of the God Botherer's dressed in freshly laundered miner's work togs, complete with hat and lamp, and you have a spectacle which would touch the heart of the most hard bitten, iPod prodding heathen. Tis all in jest, take not offence dear reader ...

A pub lunch at the "Cromwell" was, to be generous, edible. Maybe the horse had died of natural causes, the chips had had a previous life as oil swabs in an engine sump and the peas were as only processed peas can be. The puff pastry crowning the "pie", don't ask, was actually "well puffed" and the culinary high point of the whole lamentable fare. "E lad, tha shud be greetful it's now't wer near as bad as whot the pit canteen dishes up." Would there were still a pit to provide work ...

A train back to Sheffield, visit to the supermarket and the day is done.

Sunny Hatherage

A great day of sunshine. We took advantage of the 272 for an enjoyable day out in Hathersage and Stanage. Sitting in a cottage garden, surrounded by myriad birds twittering and green leafed trees swaying in the breeze, and chatting with friends, is about as good as it gets. Add a Ploughman's Lunch and that gilts the whatever cake your scoffing.

Stanage Edge was, as always on a sunny day, busy with climbers and walkers, which meant loads of cars parked along the road - what a bunch of mean pocketed drivers they are; they'll spend hundreds of pounds on gear and object to paying a couple of quid to park in the car park provided by the Peak Park Authority.

The sunshine caused the usual mass migration of Cretacea Britani onto the streets, parks and shopping centres. The amount of white blubber, often tattooed with tribal symbols of dubious provenance, is breathtaking. This mass display is symptomatic of the animal which spends most of its time sheltering in caves it calls houses and flats. The Japanese Whaling Organisations have for years been trying to obtain permission to carry out scientific research, but the short-term nature and unpredictable of sunshine in the animals habitat has, so far prevented this. The most interesting feature of these tribal animals is that they turn a bright pink or ever red by the time the sun sets. Pink or red blubber is not a sight that you want to see as you make your way home after a day in the country ...

More Painting At Porter Brook

A busy day started at 10 am. Loaded with materials and a heavy French Box easel, I caught the bus into town and arrived at the Porter Brook Studios for a full day of painting. The easel seemed like a good idea until my arms were stretch a further three inches. Tim Rose had one of his life painting session which also included a delightful lunch at the Fusion Cafe. I had a good mag with a young women who is an art teacher at Rotherham College; she is an interesting and pleasant person with a great sense of humor. That's one of the good reasons for going to these painting sessions - meeting interesting people ...

Walking back to the bus, I had the sense to drop into a store and buy a luggage trolley - no more lugging the easel ... arms back to their usual simian proportions.

I also came across a free arty magazine - "Now Then" - which is specific to Sheffield, and which turned out to be an interesting read if you like a bit of contentious opinion.

Back at the flat all was in order ...

An Arty Sheffield Day

Public transport is a real blessing when you live in a busy, traffic congested city. No parking problems, but the prospect of transporting art materials on a bus is too embarrassing for some - not me. The Millennium Gallery's Friday life classes are great if you like to daub. I do and paid my six quid for the privilege. The event was, as ever, well attended and the model professional, non-nattering and well lit. A excellent outing ...

A visit to the current free exhibition of John Martin's work at the gallery rounded off the visit. To my mind the conservators seem to have lost the point of having a show - you have to have enough light to see the work!

Time to check the emails ... what did I find? The Brick Lane Gallery London wanted to know if I wanted to exhibit some of my daubings ... er (a moments reflect), yes ... so we'll have to see what happens next ...

Buxom Buxton ... Just a Day Out

We were out-and-about today visiting a friend's hide-away in Stoney Middleton. Since we had a car, we decided to visit Buxton and see what it had to offer on a damp afternoon.

We went via Baslow, where we visited the local church, only to gate-crash the vicars 25th anniversary pray-in. The vicar's wife seemed a bit confused when I suggested that he had an eternity to redeem his sins, he too was somewhat bemused when I said I was surprised that his wife had confided in me that he was thinking about changing his job. He saw the jest of it, else I suppose would have been damed to the eternal fires which warm these Satanic Mills. I can't help myself sometimes ...

Charlie's Cafe and Bistro provided reasonable coffee and a slice of excellent Victoria Sandwich to make the church stop even more worthwhile.

Buxton in the damp has some merit by way of Victorian architecture, but we wandered little and decided to head for Stanage to catch up with some friends who run a coffee van in the car parking area which is frequented by walkers and climbers. The same friend who have the hide-away in Stoney M.

Back at the ranch ... time for lashings of Italian food and a visit from yet other folk ...

Back In Our Own Backyard

A faultless hand-over at the flat, cupboards filled from Sainsbury's and a couple of goodish night's sleep and we feel as if we're "back home again". On the day we moved in, our friends from Hathersage came over for tea, which meant we had a few hours of magging, oiled with lashings of tea and sustenance.

Friday dawned and we spent the morning nesting ... moving furniture, unpacking and cleaning. I caught the bus to town and went to the life drawing session at the gallery. Tim Rose was the artist/tutor for the afternoon, which gave us time to catch up on each of our last few months events.

Yesterday, we strolled down to the Rude Shipyard which is an "alternative" vegetarian cafe about 20 mins walk away. Reasonable coffee and excellent chocolate cake rewarded the effort and made it essential to walk back home again. We met the owner, who had lived in Melbourne for three years, married an Ozer and then returned to Sheffield. The other person a working at the cafe is a linguist, who is midway through her Master's and who I met last year at life drawing and portrait sessions. Small world ain't it ...

Today saw us visiting Tideswell and Litton villages to look at the well dressings. The gardens of some cottages are a delight to see - as only English gardens can be. This arduous activity naturally involved consuming a goodly amount of food which was proffered by the several church and social groups at each village. Two bacon butties, and four slices of home-made cake, washed down by several cups of English rosy filled the gaps, before we drove back to the cottage. There, the young dogs were their usual boisterous selves and Mr Flint, showing the reserve of an old pensioned warrior, managed a sniff and raised paw in greeting. The cottage and its garden was, as always, a haven of peace, filled with numerous species of birds including woodpeckers.

That ends a wonderful day in Derbyshire ... what a privilege it is!

What Day Is It?

All went to plan and we arrived on time at Heathrow. The hopper took us to the hotel where we had, what can only be described as, an average dinner. The Butterfly Chicken could, for all intent and purpose, have been made of very stiff cardboard doused in some BBQ sauce ... "Welcome to the UK". Breakfast came after a on-off sort of sleep ... as you'd expect after the flight and other travel. The breakfast was good; as was the coffee - must be the influence of the Middle European staff. Hopper hopped us to the bus station where we had the pleasure of talking to a falconer who's bird is used to keep the flying rats out of the bus station building. I was a bit odd seeing a hawk sitting on one of the roof beams.

The National Express service to Sheffield was excellent ... as per. In Sheffield I got the hotels mixed up so that we tried to check-in the wrong place; same chain wrong address. All else was fine. M&S supplied some lovely salads, fruit and other munchies for dinner so that we were able to collapse again into a time-coma.

Travel may broaden the mind, but it sure tires it at the same time!

Wet Day and Airports

We were up at 5.30am and on the train to Narita airport by 6.50am. Not our best time of the day, but the snooze on the Skyliner made up for some of the damp, early morning feeling. The JAL representative at the airport were fantastic about the "Jacket Saga" - it will be cleaned, again, here in Tokyo, and the flown to London where the JAL office will courier it to me in Sheffield. Could anyone complain at such service?

We checked in fast and that gave us hours to have breakfast before going through security and customs. Now it is just a few hour to departure, so we will haunt the duty free shops and by nothing ... as per ...

Fingers crossed, we will be in London this afternoon at about 4pm - always a bit odd having a the same hours over again!

Last night was a bit also a bit odd - two slight tremours and we were on the ninth floor. Everything seemed normal when we looked out of the windows, so we pretended were shaken, but not stirred. A new experience for all that ...

Yoyogi and Boo Hoo

Our last day wandering around Tokyo. We took the metro to Shibuya and were swamped by people surging everywhere. A tsunami of humanity determined to enjoy their Sunday. Shops, cafes, restaurants, stations, even the loos, where packed. We had a delicious lunch which was heaving with vegetables and noodles and then pressed on to Yoyogi Park. The map and some directions from a helpful guy selling roasted nuts promptly got us lost ... what's new? The main landmark we were looking for was the NHK Broadcasting Centre - once we found this we were OK. Once past the centre and we were at the park along with loads of other people!

What you have to imagine is groups of people, some young, some wishing they were judging by their cloths, who have a common interest. Each group does their thing which means you can wander from group to group and be entertained for free and for as long as they hold your attention. Jugglers, percussionists, ukulele players, double rope skippers, mimers.

Our favorite was a comedy drama group who where excellent. Their tricks, costume, props, mime and overall presentation held us for their complete performance of at least 30 minutes.





















We walked back to Shibuya station and got the Yamonote line back to Ueno. Our last coffee at Doutor and a quick shop for dinner marked the end of our last day wandering Tokyo. Once the washing machine has finished its magic we'll pack our things ready for an early start for the train trip to Narita airport tomorrow morning.

It may seem a bit odd, but we like the madness of Tokyo where calm, quietness is always a couple street away.

A wet day ... who cares!

Pouring rain drove us to the refuge of the Doutor cafe. The cherry sauce topped cheese cake was recommended to help waterproof the two itinerant Gaikoku-jin who seem to be haunting the cafe every day. The rain abated enough to prevent a second helping, which meant a short stroll to Ueno station to get the Ginza and the Toei Asakusa to Ota-ku. The rain had resumed a profound downward intent when we exited the metro station. We were bound for Ikegami Honmonji temple complex, but the map and lack of any visible signs to the place, lead to a short "Lost in Space" feeling. The absence of a Class M-3 Model B9, General Utility Non-Theorizing Environmental Control Robot didn't help, so we asked a policeman at the koban for directions. I had the distinct impression he kept calling me Will Robinson. Instructions were  now clear and we set off, in the rain, towards the temple.

After about one kilometer the stomach warning lights started to flash which caused an emergency divert to the nearest fuel supply depot. Unfortunately the only one in this remote part of the Tokyo Galaxy was run by a settlement of Scottish space travelers - the McDonalds. Language was still a problem since their auto-translation computer was malfunctioning. Try as I may, Japanese in a broad Glaswegian accent, reduced me to sign language and mime. The whatever-it-was in a bun was sufficient to allow us continue on our way to the temple. Fortunately the rain had stopped and was replaced buy a sort of foggy-cum-misty atmosphere.

We found the temple complex which looked good in the 100% humidity. As with all complexes it's nearly always the smaller temples which have the better feeling and gardens.

Walking back to the metro station was a simple - we put our inbuilt inertial navigation system into reverse. On the way we noticed a large garden which was mainly fruit trees and azalea bushes. This would look spectacular in the spring, but today it looked lush, green and very damp.

The Toei matter transporter projected us to the Asakusa portal which, buy some sort of miracle, opened at the door of a Doutor cafe! What puzzles us is the technology used to effect matter transport involves the use of hundreds of stairways; up and down, up and down ... we suspect the engineers would have them sideways were it possible. Thank Newton it isn't!

Tired as we were, it was still necessary to shop for dinner and breakfast. Home at last, dinner prepared, we settled down to watch some excellent TV coverage of the tsunami recovery programme. Despite the coverage being Japanese, the film and diagrammes were sufficient to leave us very impressed with the effort and general attitude to recovery - it is amazing ...

Time has come to wrestle with the duvet ..

Just Love The Speed!

Time to leave Kyoto. We started the journey by getting on the wrong subway train and ended up going away from the JR station. Not to worry, we just got off at the next stop, crossed the platform and we were off again. A leisurely coffee and onto the shinkansen. The two and a half hour journey brought us to Tokyo at speeds touching 250 km/h - brilliant!

The Yamanote line was packed, so that having luggage proved to be a bit of a struggle, but we were soon back at Ueno and the Weekly Mansion Hotel. Up on the ninth floor we were glad of a long cool drink followed by a cuppa - it's great having a kitchenette ...

Shopping and a sustaining - that's right, it begins with c - meant we we're settled in again.

I couldn't resist a quick walk around the corner to visit the ukulele showroom ... mmm ... "How much is that one?"

Up and Atom

An early start and we were on the Shinkansen to Hiroshima. I have to say that travelling on these trains is a total pleasure - fast, clean and on-time ... always!

Our first visit was the Memorial Cathedral for World Peace - optimism in concrete. A pleasant modern edifice .

Walking a bit further, via the 7 Eleven store along the way to buy some lunch, brought us to the beautiful Shukkeien garden. This garden is a favourite for wedding photos and we were fortunate to see two brides in the most magnificent traditional kimonos. The garden was begun in 1620, but was fried in 1945. Restoration was complete in 1964. Sitting in the sunshine, while eating our lunch in this lovely garden, which is a stones throw from Little Boy's ground zero, was a sobering experience. In the time it took for us to swallow a morsel the town was destroyed - one of those moments in history which, in a flash, destroy the past and, looking around the city now, create an unimaginable future. We wondered if the bride, in her beautiful kimono, ever considered what had happened to her kin in that moment or, full of young optimism, she was too busy to consider such a negative time. We, in our complacent way, enjoyed our fresh vegetables and noodles ...

We walked a little further to the re-built Hiroshima Castle, but didn't explore its grounds. An interesting monument which somehow had no interest for us.

A few blocks later, via the vast underground part of a shopping centre, took us to the Atomic Bomb Dome. This remnant of the building has a strange quality as it stands like a lepper among the fresh modern buildings. The trees around the remains do give a sense of re-birth; we supposed from some of their placement that they hadn't been planted by design and, judging from their size, they were probably 65 years old - the idea may be wrong, but it put a little positivity on an otherwise bleak memorial. For those who have the dubious pleasure of being old enough to have lived in bombed towns and cities the stark skeleton of the A-Bomb Dome brings memories which are far from pleasant.

We caught the Shinkansen back to Kyoto and had a furious six minutes to change trains at Shin Osaka. All was as it should be in Kyoto; coffee and cake, supermarket full of food and clean, freshly laundered sheets to rest weary limbs in - makes us think ...

Zen Gardens

Another rain-free day in Kyoto. We made good use of the JR rail passes and visited some beautiful temples and the associated gardens. Where to begin?


The many temples in the Tofukuji complex would occupy any visitor for days.

We visited Tofukuji, the main temple first. The several walled gardens associated and separate buildings feature moss, gravel and rock. Each of these "Zen" gardens has a particular story and all have a delightfully calming quality. In the grounds of the complex there are gardens which feature beautiful example of mass planting of Japanese Maple; the fine, bright green leaves seem to glow against the sky and beneath the branches you feel as though you are waking under delicate parasols. With the ground covered with moss the whole effect is enthralling. Most pleasant is the lack of noise, other than wind and birds and this no more than 300 metres from the JR rail line - amazing!

We walked on to Komyoin Temple not knowing anything about the place. We were truly blown away but the serenity and beauty of this "minor" temple. The buildings were an excellent example of Japanese simplicity; some would say, "Stark"- we say, "Calm, clean and uncluttered." The "Zen" garden and its setting of Azalea and Japanese Maple is complete with a small waterfall. Sounds were wind, birds and water - sublime! This temple is a real gem which we hope stays of the tourist track ...

Lunch beckoned ... On the way we were side tracked by Reiunin with its garden. This garden was rebuilt in 1970 and is an excellent example of its type. Another quiet oasis.

We took the JR train to Uji where we had a short walk to Byodoin Temple. The main hall was build just before the Norman invasion of England - we find that very thought provoking! We got there just before four bus-loads of school kids invaded the place - phew ...

We had intended to walk to several other sites, but the route we took included two bridges which were closed due to the river being in flood. The volume of water was both impressive and unnerving especially when we saw the boats that were used for tourist trips.

Back to the JR station and Kyoto. A visit to the cafe, a subway trip and the supermarket rounded off the day; a short seven hour tromp with little or no steps, but we're still tired ...

It's a Tall Tori

A beautiful sunny day in Kyoto and we were on the train by 11 am - duly coffee fill with a touch of banana brioche. Minutes later we arrived at JR Inari station bound for Fushimi-Inari-Taisha which is a huge, and I do mean huge, shrine complex that spans a whole mountain side. We walked up the tracks which go under thousands of tori and wind their way up the mountain. There are a few stopping places which have a traditional cafe-cum-shop, but we plodded on over hundreds of steps - "Good for the calf muscles," we kept reminding ourselves. It was very hot, so we stopped about midway up the mountain and had a cold drink form one of the cafe-shops. Plodding on got us to the start of what seemed to be a circular route to the top of the mountain and back.That's when common sense and a need for lunch kicked in. Going down the same hundreds of steps seemed to be more painful on tired legs, but we stumbled downwards until we got to a fork in the tori covered path. Taking a different route took us up again! However, after a few hundreds more "ups", we were relieved to come to what was the second way down. The shrine complex is really worth the effort. The surrounding forest is lush and the bird song, wind and occasional water running makes for a delightful atmosphere. The confining avenues of tori make it feel almost as though you are travelling underground in a mystical tunnel. All of the tori have inscriptions which, if you can read Japanese, would add to the other-worldly nature of the place. The individual shrines at places along the paths are a place for ancestor worship specific to a particular family. The most dominant idol at all of the shrines is the fox. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of fox statuettes. Amusing and yet spooky.

A quickish walk took us to the local shopping street where we were able to get some well deserved lunch. Sue insisted on cold noodles - she's become addicted to the things ...

Back to the JR train for a quick hop to Tofukuji temple complex. We arrived just in time for the entries for the day to close ...

We returned to the JR station and Kyoto. A short day - only six hours plodding - followed by the essential coffee and apple pie, subway trip and food shopping. We recommend the "Cafe du Monde" at JR Kyoto station even though the cafe is a US franchise; it's convenient at the end of a rail trip.

Our aching legs ...

Himeij That

We started the day relatively early, 9.30 am, and took the subway to Kyoto station; coffee next - naturally.  We caught the 10.49 am Hikari Shinkansen to Himeji; a short 45 minute ride. The 15 min walk to the Castle took us down Himeij's main, tree lined boulevard which, as expected, gave us the opportunity get an early lunch at the 8th floor of a posh department store. Delicious cold udon noodles and tempura.

Himeji Castle is a world cultural heritage site and the restoration of it is an on-going project. The main tower is undergoing a complete make-over and the technology being used to cocoon the building is, of its self, amazing - another babushka construction. We visited all the parts of the castle that were open and, in so doing, climbed up and down more steep, wooded stairs than we had bargained for - in stockinged feet because all the floors are the traditional, bare boards. For all that, the place was well worth a visit - especially if you consider that its present form was, more or less, finished during the reign of Elizabeth the First.

Next to the castle is Koko-En gardens which meant that we had the very pleasant experience of wandering through twelve different garden types. Water features with the inevitable koi, wooden buildings, and manicured lawns, bushes and tree were a delight to see; the weather sunny and the sound of a gentle wind and water splashing - what more could we have wanted? A cool drink which rapidly turned into green tea ice cream ...

We wandered back to the Himeji station and caught the shinkansen back to Kyoto. Another subway ride and we were able to drop into the supermarket to get some fresh veggies for dinner.

What a day - all nine hours of wandering ...

Central Kyoto ... JR Station Building and Temples of Mammon

A beautiful day in Kyoto meant that the dogs would be barking by dinner time. A subway took us to JR Central where we booked Shinkansen tickets for Himeji. We passed a illy coffee shop so had to try their drop which proved to be an excellent espresso drawn, or should that be expressed, from a genuine Italian espresso machine - so much for my comment yesterday ...

Looking for the Kyoto Culture Office took us to the 9th floor of the Isetan store which is part of the JR building complex - and I mean complex. That done we entered the Temple of Mammon - even for a non-shop-a-holic it was mind blowing.

Having become google-eyed at the goodies on offer we decided to make for the more spiritual temples which are a couple of blocks from the JR building. Sad to say, we had the disgusting dis-pleasure of standing next to three beer swilling Ozers while we waited for a green man to light our way. Loud mouthed Neanderthals who suffered from verbal diarrhea which informed those around that they supported various footy and aussie rules teams. What excellent ambassadors. What excellence our education system produces.

Nishi Hongwanji temple has been around since 1173. It's very big and, unfortunately we couldn't visit the large garden behind the two main buildings.

A couple of blocks away, Higashi Honganji temple is equally as large.

Both of these temples have one of their main buildings inside a temporary building which we supposed was there while restoration work was being carried out. These babushka buildings were impressive in themselves.



Wandering back to the JR building so that we could get the subway back to the hotel took us, inevitably, to a cafe for afternoon tea and cake.

Back "home" it was time to rest after six and a-half hours of wandering.

Smooth and Fast

The Hikari shinkansen left Tokyo on time and arrived in Kyoto on time two and three-quarter hours later. What a way to travel - fast trains are really brilliant! Shinkansen, TGV, ES Italia, ICE, AVE, Eurostar - we don't care, so long as they are fast and run on time. Hint to Oz - it's about time ...

We took the subway and checked-in at the Palace Side Hotel and, as expected, the room was excellent. As per usual it was time to find some reviving black fluid.

The little coffee shop just down the road is one of those places you don't expect to find these days - not a franchise, but owner run and selling all manner of coffee beans from a wide geographical provenance. Not a bad drop and drip brewed - we've not come across anywhere in all our trips to Japan where they use the Italian pot (mocca macchinette) even for on-the-spot brewing of a single cup. Also, espresso machines are less than common in cafes.

The next port-of-call was a supermarket to fill our food cupboards for the next few days. That done we went for what proved to be a longer stroll that intended. Old limbs exhausted, we returned to the hotel for a delicious dinner.

Now it's time to plan tomorrows exploits ...

Wet, Wet and ... Wet

A warm and rainy day in Tokyo. What do you do? It's either stay inside some large museum or shopping centre or, our preference, get wet and a decent coffee.

The metro took us to Akihabara to see what computers were on offer. If we tried to count them in the huge shop we went in we'd still be there! I was interested in the alternatives to the viral Apple product that I've dismissed as a fashion item. Onkyo and Acer produce great alternative "pads" which have USB ports and very good performance. Both products feel solid and run W7 - as opposed to Android or the Apple OS. Familiarity breeds less frustration ... Problem. Are these products sold in the UK or Australia? We'll see ...

After a delicious lunch of sliced beef and very fresh veggies we took the metro to Ueno so see what was being shown at the various galleries. Nothing to our taste. Ignoring the rain, we walked to Singenji Temple (Iriya Kishimoji). That done it, seemed appropriate to recharge our energies. We took the metro back to Ueno and the safety of our most visited coffee shop on Asakusa Dori. The rain still poured ...

We wandered about Asakusa back streets with the intention of going to the supermarket. This was excellent because we "discovered" a beautiful temple complete with koi and a bridge over an artificial stream. According to the local "you are here" map there are loads of temples in this area - most look like residences which I suppose are also theological colleges.

The best discovery and most surprising, was a Kiwaya ukulele shop which has existed since 1919. Apparently the uke is quite a favorite and has been for years.

If you wander the Asakusa back streets two things make braving the rain worthwhile. The quiet atmosphere and old buildings nestled between modern high-rise shops and apartments.

Back at the ranch, dinner called ... stir-fried, fresh veggies, tofu and sashimi (tuna) ...

Then it'll be time to pack for the trip to Kyoto.

Metros, Markets and Moaning Metatarsus

First project of the day was to try and get my water-stained linen jacket dry cleaned. The dry cleaning shop is just around the corner. Off I went full of can-do only to be brought up sharp by a total inability to understand the shop assistant - why should she speak English? The hotel manager kindly took me by the hand and we went back to the cleaners where he negotiated the deal. Apparently, the shop assistant was worried that I didn't understand that the cleaning may not remove the stain.

 A very pleasant day was spent re-acquainting ourselves with Tokyo. We made straight for the coffee shop to get the tramping molecules charged and then it was off to Ueno JR station to exchange our rail ticket vouchers for the JR passes. Two delightful and very helpful young women tended to our desires so that we were now in possession of  our JR passes and booked shinkansen tickets for the journeys to and from Kyoto.

Time to plunder the local markets in Ueno ... if buying a couple of trinkets is classed as plunder, which I doubt. A plate of tempura and cold noodles followed, which revived us from such strenuous activity and we were able to travel on the metro to Tokyo central. We congratulated ourselves on not getting lost in the stations labyrinthine bowels and found our way outside to marvel at the old station building restoration project currently in progress - it will look stunning when it's finished.

A brisk march around the local area was followed by a metro back to Ueno where were sought out a refreshing coffee. The coffee shop is just across the street from a huge electronics store which gave me the excuse to check out the iPad 2 - no usb port; no good to me then ...

Back at the ranch for a wee rest and then it was time to visit the supermarket. On the way to Temple Nosh we were side tracked by a visit to two temples.

Higashi-Honganji is a small temple almost next to the hotel - hence the hotel's name. Just down the road from Higashi-Honganji there is another temple which was first built in ca. 1250 - I couldn't get the name of the place because a monk was shutting the main gate for the evening ... tomorrow I'll ...

Temple Nosh provided an abundance of  scoffables - we're going to have ginger chicken with stir-fried  veggies and noodles. Afters will be some sort of bready, cinnamon thing which looks delicious. "Is the stuff radioactive ?" I hear you ask. Who cares ...

Up, Up and Away

After a very short night's sleep we checked in at KS Sydney at 5.37 am. The plane took off on time and the flight was excellent - JAL always are. The train to Ueno and a quick walk brought us to the hotel at 7.30 pm. That allowed a dash to the supermarket for some goodies for dinner - the sashimi was delicious. That's when we discovered that my case was soaked  ... inside!

What sort of complete idiot leaves luggage out in the pouring rain while it is being loaded onto a plane? Easy answer - an Australian loader. It is hard to understand that a country that boasts as much as Oz does, can, with ever regular habit, stuff up nearly every basic aspect of any activity we try to do. "She'll be right mate" - I don't think so mate! OK, I know I'm a retread Pom - whinging at the whingable.  Moving on ...

The appartment hotel Weekly Mansion Higashi-Ueno is fine. We're on the 9th floor and the lift works. A very comfortable little flatlet. The main surprise this morning is a cockerel doing its thing in someone's place down the street - it's Tokyo don't forget.

What will we do today? Who knows ...