Sunny but Cool in Derbyshire

During the last two day we have been out-and-about in Derbyshire; Hathersage on Sunday and Bakewell on Monday. The local bus service provided excellent transport; it still puzzles me why most folk don't use public transport instead of driving ...

Weather-wise we had two lovely days; each stated with cold and misty condition which cleared to sunny afternoons. Typical autumn weather for England; the sort that encourages wearing fleecy cloths and brisk walks in beautiful countryside.

Bakewell parish church (All Saints) has an ancient past and really well preserved Elizabethan tombs; unfortunately these are hidden behind loads of stored items so it's difficult to see them properly. The village was awash with people because the markets were in full swing. Did that stop us visiting a cafe? No. We managed to include both lunch and afternoon tea in the itinerary - don't ever have the Bakewell Tart if you're in Bakewell; the local version is almost inedible!)

Back at the cottage both friends and dogs were in fine fettle and poached eggs on toast plus a generous slice of cake rounded off another visit.

Sad to Leave Venice - Again ...

We are always sad to leave Venice and it was the same this time. We seemed to get more from the visit this time because we are getting so familiar with the ordinary life there. Wandering, vaporettoing (yes, I know there is no such word) and visiting cafes, art shows, shops - just an excellent way to spend time.

Pet dislikes? Huge cruise liners, tourist groups (one was 60 people, yes, 60, yanks), beggars selling fake fashion accessories, tourist menus (they actually eat the stuff!), people who insist intaking photos while standing in the middle of the small bridges and alleys, people who think that any flight of steps are actually seats ... and dog shit!

Next visit? Maybe a month ...

The vaporetto, bus, aircraft, bus, train and taxi trip took 8 hours door-to-door. No problems. We were delighted. Thanks to all the folk that make these things possible!

Don't You Just Love a Good Rail Network

What a day!

One trip to Castlefranco Veneto and then hop onto another regionale to Treviso. A busy 10 hour day in all, but well worth the effort. Molto stancoed again!

The day started with an aqua alta; the new siren has several tones depending on the hight of the expected flood. We didn't know what to expect until I asked a local, in ear punishing Italian, what the siren was for. The 52 vaporetto had to divert and go down the Grand Canal because the tide was too high to disembark passengers along the regular route.

A quick coffee at the station and onto the train.

How do they do it? Where ever you go in Europe you never seem to get a bad coffee - bad means: bitter and almost undrinkable no matter how much sugar you put into it. In Australia and The UK it seems that the sole aim is to perform around the machine and produce a bitter tar which even the most avide coffee drinker couldn't drink - it's a puzzle. Tell me who started the bucket sized servings? That was rhetorical folks - its the yanks and those dreary TV shows where everyone drinks Starbucks, Gloria Jean's or whatever (any flavour including sump oil and peanut butter) in one of those paper buckets - make sure the talent has the label clearly facing the camera ...

Back to Italy - I've taken my pill so I'll probable not have another rant for a couple of hours ...

Castlefranco Venito has a small, but interesting, historic centre. A walled city with a duomo andseveral interesting buildings.

Treviso was a large walled city, but much of the historic building are re-builds because the originals were destroyed by bombing during the European WW2. The old city has a very pleasant atmosphere and the re-builds are exceptionally good. The duomo is very plain but worth a visit.

Bologna - Arcades Are Us!

The 7.56 am train from Venice to Bolgnga was excellent; packed with university students on their way to Padua, Ferrara and the like - a regionale; none of your intercity prices thanks!

Bologna streets are a feast for the eye - if you are into architecture made mainly of brick.

The duomo is plain inside, compared to the usual Italian basilica, but the height of the building is emphasised by the simplicity of the structure. The main piazza is amazing and reminded us of Florence and Sienna - a huge piazza; castlelike buildings and loads of bits and pieces which are essential to give the impression that Renaissance Italy is still with us.

Yes, there were loads of tourist groups; it gets easier to ignor them even if they are loud-mouthed Americans. Why do they always behave in such a crass way? Posted answers to the Department of US Education and Training must be in written in large block capitals using a black crayon on a single sheet of A4, ruled pale blue or green paper; words of more than two syllables are not acceptable ... ;)

We wandered about for hours just looking at the architecture which is so complex and interesting that it compensated for the frantic traffic and milling crowds. A visit to McDonnald's provided a much needed loo stop - always a good way of finding clean facilities.

Train back to Venice was less packed and a 42 vaporetto got us home in time for a feast of pasta and insalata. A 11 hour day in all - door to door; we were molto stanco.

Ryan Does It Again!

Train from Sheffield and flying from Leeds-Bradford airport was a snip. Ryanair got us to Treviso on time with no probs. The ATVO bus from Treviso airport to Venice took us to the Pizzale Roma where we caugth the No 51 vaporetto to Giardini. A short walk and we were at the apartment. Friends dropped in the keys and we were settled in ...

A visit to Prix supermarket and the cupboards were full of lovely food.

Two days of wandering, shopping, eating and just enjoying the city ... what more could we ask for? Trust us, it's an unique place to be. The via Garibaldi is always a great place to wander and it's just over the bridge to San Pietro - 95% locals and we now feel so familiar it feels like 'home'.

Rain,Rain and .... Rain

A few days in Derbyshire at our friend's cottage was accompanied by lots of rain. Well it's getting into autumn so   it's what we expect if we're truthful. The green and pleasant can't be green without the H2O so moaning seems a bit pointless.

I had a heat-in-the-mouth moment when I managed to drive one of the front wheels of the car over the edge of  the cottage driveway. Experience clicked into place - I jacked the beast up and levered the offending large blocks of stone out of the way with an 8 foot fence post. It was raining at the time which cooled my fevered brow somewhat. Shoving slabs of rock under the wheel allowed me to, eventually, drive the car back onto the road. Damage was not evident so another sigh of relief from my wallet ended the trauma. Hey-ho it's all in a day's excitement ...

We venture out in the rain and drove up to the high moors down narrow, winding and often steep lanes. The views were none existent in the rain and cloud so we drove down to High Bradfield village where we visited a splendid church. St Nicholas dates from at least the 9C and the existing building is, more-or-less, a 15C structure.

High Bradfield was a Norman stronghold complete with two motte-and-bailey fortifications.

Modern Drugs and Good Food ...

I am happy to report that an application of a wide range of pharmaceuticals and yummy grub has just about cured my bout of plague.

We have been taking plenty of rest in preparation for our next sortie into darkest Derbyshire. Time has been spent packing plenty of bright beads and small mirrors to trade with. The natives, we are assured, have stopped the reprehensible habit of eating visitors from modern, technological climes.

I still wonder if we should take a translator; the natives are very difficult to understand ...

Colds - Guaranteed to Keep You at Home

What a bummer! Coughs and sneezes definitely aren't the thing to have if you're supposed to be visiting friends or family. This w/e will be a tissue of boredom interspersed with the odd intake of prescribed  and otherwise available drugs, potions and such like. I always seem to be the weakest link in the contamination train and end up spluttering over all an sundry who are unfortunate to come withing 5 metres.

Feed a cold they say so I will ....

Longshaw Sheep Dog Trials

Another visit to the Longshaw Estate to see the sheep dogs do their stuff. We met our friends and enjoyed an excellent picnic while watching shepherds doing their thing - sheep trying their best to be as unobliging as sheep can be. The weather was at its best - sun and a light breeze. This sheepdog trial has been held each year for over one hundred years. The trial last three days and is one of the most prestigious.

Three packs of hounds provided a break in the days competitions. A very enjoyable day and made possible by using our stalwart transport - the 272 to Castleton.

Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg and Selestat

The Chateau du Haut-Koenigsbourg is an almost completely restored castle dating from the 12th C. The castle is sited a-top one of the most prominent hills (mountain?). Wilhelm II is responsible for the renovation which resulted in the castle being opened in 1908. While the place looks like a stage set it is still worth a visit if only for the views. The cafe serves an excellent Black Forest cake ...

St George's church

The castle is situated near Selestat which is a lovely village with a wealth of places to visit. The  St George's church (cathedral?) is amazing and St Faith's church has a really calming atmosphere.






The village centre is packed with cobbled streets and medieval buildings. We visited on Sunday so the whole of the town was quiet which made for an excellent meandering stroll. The regional train from Strasbourg provided easy transport (15.60 euros for two OAPs!) and the local bus took us from the station to the castle for 8 euros return - excellent value.

Back at the hotel bar a Ricardo and a beer replenished our energy so that we could tuck into our usual evening feast courtesy of the local supermarket.

Colmar - Day in a Medieval Town Centre

The regional train took 30 mins to take us to Colmar at the cost of 16.60 euros for two OAPs - it pays to be old! The town was, as we'd expected, full of tour groups but these did not detract from the delightful nature of the town centre. There are plenty of medieval building and norrow streets to satify any visitor.

Our first stop was Musee D'Unterlinden which is right at the heart of the old town.This museum is exceptional in all respects - exhibits and extent. The Isenheim Altarpiece (Le Retable d'Issenheim) is brilliently displayed - no dim lighting and shown in what was a church. The cloister is lovely and adds to the pleasure of the visit.

St Martin's collegiate church (the cathedral?) and the Dominican church are notable places to visit; the latter has columns which seem to be far too long to be stable and, unfortunately, we could not visit the cloister or photograph anything inside which was disappointing.

We wandered the streets and, naturally, sampled the coffee and cakes at a couple of cafes. The weather being perfect, it was an altogether excellent day trip.

Wandering Around Strasbourg

Visiting the European Institutions buildings is not that exciting but their achitecture contrasts so much to the historic buildings it is worth a quick tram ride - especially if it's raining. The European Parliament building is by far the most interesting.

Churches, as always, provide lots of variation and interest. The "twinned" church of St Pierre-le-Vieux (one part Protestant the other Catholic) provide clear examples of the divergent nature of their religeous doctrines; the plain and well lit versu ornate and dim - that's the buildings not the doctrines.

St Pierre-le-Jeune (Catholic) is a magnificent building and provides an excellent example of what a "new", if rather plain, basilica looks like.









St Pierre-le-Jeune (Protestant) comes as a bit of a shock when you enter. The profusion of decoration; virtually wall-to-wall frescos. The reason being is that it was a shared Catholic and Protestant church at one time. This church has to be the best one to visit if you have limited time in Strasbourg, especially since it has a delightful cloister.

St Thomas (Lutheran) is unusual in that there are five naves. The height of the columns is also remarkable so that the whole interior looks like a stone forrest.


A visit to Le Palais Rohan provides three museums; we chose the Fine Arts and the Archaeology Museums (no surprise there). The Archaeology Museum is splendid and extensive - if you are, like us, into old bits and pieces from long dead folk. The extent of Roman artifacts really showed our lack of appreciation of the Roman history of Strasbourg.


Wandering around La Petite France is a delight - if you ignore the tour groups - because there are many 16th and 17th C half-timbered houses and narrow streets.

Strasbourg Cathedral, Churches, Canals and Museums - Phew ...

What can I say - nothing that would really tell you how much we enjoyed Strasbourg. Travel in the city is easy with trams and buses covering all of the suburbs; they are regular and fares are cheap. Most of the historical places are in the centre so that exercise is free.

The cathedral is magnificent but sadly quite dim inside which doesn't let you see the place as well as you may like. There are dozens of tour groups which does distract but overall we couldn't fail to be impressed. The height of the columns is, by themselves, impressive.


We visited the cathedral glass window and art museum which is excellent - over 2 hours of browsing and not at a slow pace. The building itself is interesting being well restored and re-modeled. I particularly liked the tiny courtyard with a loggia which seems to be at the centre of the building.

Eurostar to Strasbourg

St Pancras

Just for a change we decided to go by train. Leaving Sheffield for London we arrived at St Pancras on time. St Pancras is on of the pleasantest stations; a magnificent, rejuvenated Victorian building with lots of cafes and shops. Booking into the Eurostar lounge was a snip - all the usual security and migration checks. The train left on time and arrive at Lille on time. A quick stroll around the station, coffee and a pit stop and we were on the TGV for Strasbourg only 10 mins late.

Strasbourg Gare

Strasbourg station has a really modern glass bubble covering the front facade which is really brilliant - if you like modern architecture.

The best part of travelling by train has to be not having all the bother with luggage compared to air travel.

Will we do it again even though it took a total of 12 hours from door to door? You bet! Trains - I love them ...

The Hotel Le Grillon was 5 min walk from the station. A very pleasant place with helpful staff and a great bar. The bar - La Perestroika - is exactly the kind you want to find in France. Friendly, alive and just the place to unwind after 5 or 6 hours tramping the street. The specialty of the bar was vodka ...

Tea, Cakes and Bunches of Flowers at Taddington

The 272, late, took us to Haveasausage as is our  habit. At the cottage we received a hearty welcome and the dogs, as expected, explored my pockets for tasty treats. It always delights us to find such a welcome only 30 mins from the apartment and  the almost immediate change from urbanity to lush green moorland seems magical.

Another bright summer's day made for a tip to Taddington. The Derbyshire countryside is at it's greenest and best. Taddington's village folk were hosting their Well Dressing and have also decked out the church (St Michael and All Angels, mid 14 C) with flowers.

Tea, cakes and sandwiches, freshly made, were available so, naturally, we tested the fare. Bells were rung their round which made the whole experience seem like a scene from a BBC 19 C period drama. England at it's most English. All that was missing was a cricket match on the green; there is no green.

Back to the cottage for high-tea and a chance to solve the problems of the world ...

Offan a Bigger Surprise Than You Expect

A trip to Lichfield cathedral proved to be one of the most surprising we have had. I didn't feel like driving so we took the National Express coach for a relaxing day out. That was even more sensible because the coach was caught in nose-to-tail traffic, which moved at walking speed, while travelling on the M1 and it was raining - I had the pleasure of sitting back and letting someone else have the stress.

Lichfield city seems to be a very pleasant place with a quiet feel to the town centre which is a mixture of  historic and ultra-modern buildings. We walked into The Close which surrounds the cathedral. The building is truly magnificent. Constructed of fine grained pink-red sandstone sadly, affected by years of wood and coal smoke which gives the building a very dark colour and almost black in places. This doesn't diminish the impressive nature of the place.

Inside is fabulous. Well restored and lit. I can honestly say it left me speech less - a near impossible state. This cathedral is one of the finest you could visit - despite malicious efforts of the Cromwellian Taliban. The east windows are being restored so we didn't see 16th C glass bought by Boothby from Belgium during the early 19th C. The Rood Screen is Victorian and is like a piece of jewelry which looks really beautiful.

We can thank Offa (he of the dike) for getting permission from the Pope to create a Bishopric in 786 AD which started the whole process of creating such a magnificent building.

Calder Valley in Sunshine

A family day out by train - sort of. A christening called the Ellmore Clan to Whalley in the Calder Valley. Sue answered the call and we took the train via Leeds and Blackburn. The country looked great in the sunshine - in other weather most of it would have been bleak to say the least. Chrisening over, we repasted and made our way back to Sheffield. However, due to staffing difficulties, the train to Leeds was cancelled. The Northern Rail Customer Service Officer was as helpful as he could be and he re-routed us, via Bolton and Manchester, back to Sheffield. Now things are not that simple ticket-wise. Our ticket was only valid via Burnley, so we were liable to pay any difference in fare. That's where common sense and reasonability of the three guards on the trains came into play - we were not asked to pay a penny extra. All-in-all excellent service and helpful staff got us back to Sheffield half-an-hour earlier than the train we'd book in the first place.

What was our impression of Leeds, Blackburn, Bolton and Manchester et al? Sadley they seemed to fulfill the worse image you can bring to mind of  "The North" - scruffy urban sprawl. Sheffield seems to avoid this impression for reason which escape us.

Overall a great train ride and very pleasant Clan meeting.

Rain, Thunder and Wind - You Can Bank On IT

What weather - er, it's typical English summer storms. Driving in the poring rain along a winding lane which followed the banks of the river Witham certainly aided my concentration. We reached Kirstead and the rain eventually eased so we could see the little church (St Leonard's) isolated in the fields. Down the gravel track, passing the very limited remains of the old Kirkstead Abbey, brought us to this unusual church which looks a cross between old Saxon/Norman and one you'd expect to find in rural Denmark, Norway or Sweden - it's half stone and half timber. It was locked - naturally. We peeked through the keyholes and go a glimpse of the medieval rood screen but didn't have the heart to crash the wedding that was timed to start in an hours time. On to Woodhall Spa ...

Nothing to see worth stopping there and, rain resuming it's downpour, we went on to Bolingbroke Castle; there is only the remains of the castle. The rain eased - sort of - so we pottered about the ruins until the thunder and lighting encouraged us to retreat to the church at Old Bolingbroke. Part of the church of St Peter and St Paul dates back to the 14th century and it is believed that this rebuilding was paid for by John of Gaunt. This is a very pleasant church and well used; we blundered into a cleaning session which was in preparation for a tea and cake morning planned for the following day. Unfortunately no tea or cakes were on offer, only dusters and cobweb brushes ...

Next stop, Revesby. Tea was on offer and indulgence whetted a interesting conversation with the lady vicar about the history of the church  (St Lawrence) and the Revesby Estate. The estate is still huge and it's Almshouses are still rented out to the more needy. These houses were built by Joe Banks' father - Banks of botanical persuasion and Cook expedition. Another Terra Australis Old Boy location and all by accident ...

Torrents of rain finally washed us back to our temporary lodgings via the essential supermarket ... QED

Country Roads, Churches and a Norman Castle

First stop this morning was at Heydour where we looked for the remains of the Norman motte and bailey. No luck, other than a slight mound covered in ill tended bushes, which seemed to have no legal way of being reached on foot; looking at the aero photo showed the mounds were indeed the motte. The village reeked of ill-gotten-gains; no ordinary mortals here; by-Jove, couldn't have the likes of the unwashed next door. One place called a "farm" was either a house paid for by the government or the weekend retreat of one of the multi-lolly brigade. All too nice and clean ... even the stables looked as though they had just been washed. T'other houses all touted themselves as "hall", "manor" and such like. Out of all the villages we've seen this one look just a bit too quiet, clean and tidy; almost spooky. Just as we started to leave a couple of rustics seems to appear from nowhere to give us the once-over. Odd ... so onward ...

We drove though Aswarby - large church in poor repair (locked) - which was the home of George Bass. On to Morton to be surprised by the church not only being open but huge. The tower, situated at the crossing, seemed more appropriate for an abbey.

On down to Bourne where the thunderstorms started to dampen our perambulations. The Abbey church was founded in 1138 and naturally was built in Norman style. A large building which is well worth a visit.

Castle Bytham

Despite the rain we drove on to Castle Bytham and walked over some farm land to see the remains of a Normal Castle. There is no sign of the stone work that would have existed had the castle been of the size and construction suggested by the historical information posted at the site. The motte and bailey mound is very large and impressive. I'll have to research this site because I'm really sceptical about the posted information.

We drove back to Sleaford via a really twisty route which provided grand views of reaped fields of wheat and rolling hills, plus, as a real surprise, about 12 deer in the middle of the narrow road.

Flinders Surprise Finders

What a summer day! You have to have experience an English summer day; no words can describe the day we have had. Weather wise - perfect! A trip down Motte and Bailey lane took us to the village of Swinehead where we eventually found "The Manwar Ings". This is a large two moated earthwork of Norman age. Overgrown and  isolated but still impressive in terms of the ditch size as well as the panoramic view the motte provided of the surrounding fens.

Next we visited Bicker church, St Swithin's, which has some of the best Norman work in Lincolnshire and triple lancet windows; sadly it was locked. We drove on to Donington which we expected to pass through but the massive church just had to be investigated. The church of St Mary and the Holy Rood was also locked but, fortunately, the keeper of the key had seen us wandering around the outside. That's when we found Mat Flinders.

Part of a stained glass window

We had no idea that Matthew Flinders - the fantastic navigator - was born in Donington in March 1774. His dad was the village surgeon and apothecary and Matthew, age 13, helped pa to bleed and potion the locals before joining the Navy in 1789. The church has what is a virtual shrine to the fellow and Ozers visit by the boat load. The church key holder turned out to be the main architect of Flinders memorial; he had travelled to Oz six time to catalogue Flinders memorabilia and, being a retired geography teacher, was as enthusiastic as any Flinderphile you could meet.


After a pleasant chat we moved on to the village of Horbling and visited St Andrew's church - closed. Lo and behold, Flinders was sent to this church in 1786 as a border at Rev John Shingler's school at a cost of £10-10s a year. Makes you think when you learn that the great Oz explorer (really a Lincolnshire Lad) went to a single room school run by a local vicar. Mat married Ann Chappell, a Lincolnshire Lass from Partney, which is a village a few mile north of Donington; we have yet to visit Partney ...

No Eagles but History by the Shed Load

Driving into Lincoln you can't but be impressed by the cathedral sited on the hill. This is a magnificent building which some claim is the finest of its kind in Europe. We spent an excellent afternoon in the company of one of the cathedral staff and, later, had the pleasure of listening to a Swiss choir practising for Evensong service. No matter how many time I visit the place I'm always impressed - that's been over 55 years now ...

The walk up Steep Hill, which is another old haunt of my childhood, from the town centre, seems to have increased in steepness. The Jews House is one of the historic buildings at the base of the hill and was, for a short time, owned or rented, by my ma's distant family - or so I was told when a snotty nosed brat.

We spent an informative morning at St Mary-le-Wigford church visiting the vicar (Jeremy), an acquaintance we made last year when he was a curate in Sleaford. This guy is not your average priest; ex-military intelligence via the Bosnian conflict and, to be polite, I just say he calls a spade a shovel. He has reopened the church after many years of, more or less, closure to the riff-raff. The place is now a drop-in centre and doing well giving what support it can to those who are outside nice, polite society.

British Heritage have approve plans for a major update of the facilities at the church - kitchen, meeting rooms, photo-voltaic panels and a covered cloister which are add-on structures to the historic building. St Mary's is THE oldest church in Lincoln and there is archaeological evidence that it is possible that there were Iron Age settlements on or near the site.

On our way back to Sleaford we tried to find the remains of a Knights Templar preceptory just south of Cranwell but were put off by the lateness of the afternoon and the farm track that lead to what I thought was the building's roof; the only thing we could see that was remotely like a tower and visible over the hedge rows. This will be investigated again ...

Phew or Maybe Pew - They're 600 Years Old!

It's been a busy two days shuttling from pew to pew. The country lanes and minor roads in Lincolnshire seem to be laced with medieval churches. Our fascination with the historic is almost hysteric with the promise of medieval wall paintings just down the next road. Spires beckon from behind yet another copse of vibrantly green trees just across the fields which are golden with wheat. The weather has been idyllic so that driving is a pleasure - well almost.

Pickworth

The names of the villages where we visited the churches sound of the history of this county:  Brant Broughton, Welbourn, Fenton, Leadenham, Stubton, Beckingham, Corby Glen, Irnham, Silk Willoughby, Pickworth, Quarrington and Lenton.

I find it interesting to conjecture on what happened to the people who sat in the boxed pew that I sit in as I look at the 600 year old Rood Screen set across the Norman arch which itself is partly supported by Saxon Pillars. The remains of the medieval wall paintings on the Clerestory seem sad and unimpressive in terms of colour but their simple graphically nature outstrips the complex designs of the Victorian stained glass now decorating the east window. One church can span the whole of the religious history, and therefore social and political history, of England; that is the fascination of these churches.

Tomorrow... Colonia Domitiana Lindensivm Lindvm ... in search of the Eagle of the Ninth? ...

Well Dressings, Jet Fighters and Cathedral

What a mixture! A week of this and that nearly makes my head spin. We hired a car for the week (Enterprise of course) and had a day trip out looking at the well dressings in Derbyshire.

Bradwell proved to have a splendid array of homemade cakes, fresh sandwiches and pots of freshly brewed tea ... the well dressings were very good too. We wandered the village which, to our surprise, was bigger than we thought - that's to be expected because the only time we've been here before was to by the excellent Bradwell ice cream; sadly this enterprise has gone bust.

Bonsall's well dressings were OK but, being filled with tea and cake, we didn't go for more. The countryside was as lovely as you'd expect for a sunny day in Derbyshire - traffic in places as mad as ever.

A fast, traffic filled drive brought us to our home turf - Lincolnshire. Yesterday we had an excellent lunch at a pub boasting 600 whiskeys which, on inspection, seemed to be mostly empty bottles. Meeting Sue's bro and sis allowed over three hours on pleasant nattering and catching up on family this-and-that. It came as a surprise to lean that bro had spent part of his working life maintaining the GPO equipment housed in the roof of Lincoln cathedral; this explained his interest in the cathedral.

The Real Biltons?

Today, Sunday, has dawned sunny and warm - that soft English summer atmosphere which once experienced is never forgotten. Blue sky and fighter's - that's typical of this neck of the woods; Cranwell is but 10 miles away. The 600 whiskey pub has a folk festival today; free entry supported by arts grants and the BBC amongst others. We'll oil up our rapper knives, polish our clogs and whack our diddle-ohs down to the barn for a gurt olde knees-up with fellow Yellow-Bellies.

"When I was born apprentice in famous Lincolnshire,
T'was then I took to poachin' as you shall quickly hear ...."

A Pocket Full of Biscuits and You Are Home

It's been an interesting week doing all the ordinary things that are necessary to normal life. We're trying to avoid the excellent supermarket that is virtually at our front door. Delicious, mouth watering goodies begging to be bought wafting their fattening vapours through the air conditioning ducts - pure torture I tell you!

We've took the trusty 272 to Have-a-sausage (Hathersage to the non-locals) and visited our friends at their cottage.

Passing the village cricket ground we watched a couple of overs with the sounds of Blackbirds, leather-on-willow, muted shouts of the players and the half-hour chime of the village church clock took us to a different world. Twee or hackneyed that world may be so some but it's a delightful place for me. The walk across the fields was, as ever, really pleasant. There is something about England's countryside that just can't be bettered.

When we arrived at the cottage all three dogs remembered my biscuit pocket which made me feel at home again.

Stoney Middleton Well Dressing

Sunday dawned bright and we mount a 272 to Hathersage where we meet our friends for a day out looking at  Well Dressings at the village of Stoney Middleton in Derbyshire. The main feature was excellent; probably the best we've seen to date. The centre feature was particularly interesting and, being just made, really subtle in colour. Tea and a cake were essential to appreciate the art work.

Picking raspberries, buying plants and having an excellent lunch at our friends' cottage, plus being welcomed by three sheepdogs - we're sure they remember us (our smell probably ...) - and walking over the farm to the Mill Pond, made the day perfect. Some places are very special; this is one of them.

"Watercolour in Britain" Exhibition

The Millennium Gallery Sheffield has an extensive exhibition of watercolours and it's free entry. As always the knowllege-college edificated conservation minded curators have set the lighting so low that you'd be well advised to have your miners lamp handy.  I suppose having such lumination is sort of traditional in this neck of the woods it once being ther mining captital of the UK; no longer the case thanks to Iron-Draws Maggie T - I won't explore that any further lest I offend ...

The exhibition is very good and I particularly enjoyed the less traditional Turnerish reportage pieces which have a more gouche like look. No doubt I'll have a squiz again.

The Continental Markets are in full swing this w/e so we had a wander without buying anything - I think it's still a bit of a novalty to the locals the market being "Continental" in nature - we're funny lot we Brits; admitting that we're a part of the continent (Europe) is still a tad hard to do ...

After trawling the art supply shops we bought most of the basics for daubing and sticking so that we should have no excuse not to be making arty "things". The appartment has a north facing window-wall so the light is excellent for working.

We can also report that being an oldie-with-a-bus-pass is excellent - no car needed ...

Gossip - It's A Social Necessity

It's a pleasure when you have settled-in (well almost) and start seeing friends and doing what you traveled to do. Our friends from Stanage came over for lunch so that we had an grand time catching up on all the gos: dogs as frisky as usual, freezing cold winter, highland cattle smashing rear lights on car, campers, climbers, hang-gliders and walkers still a pain in the backside, Park Authority as daft as ever, Brit pollies totally looney, economy in tatters, but, apart from that all is as it should be.

Yesterday provided an excellent lunch at the Fusion Cafe and magging session with Tim Rose. I dropped into an evening Life Drawing session at Tim and Rebbeca's studio. Walking from the city centre in the twilight at 9.30 pm proved to be a little scary - I only saw 6 or 7 people so that the streets felt deserted; no doubt the pubs and resturaunts were full and TVs well goggled at. It always surpises me how quiet a city becomes after 7 pm, that is unless you trawl the clubbing and boozing areas - I don't ...

Manuals Manuals Manuals ...

So here we are in a minimalistic Italian chic apartment with all the bells and whistles you could ask for - well nearly all. Trouble is you have to know how to use them! Every one of the appliances is either Italian or German. Even the hotplate has a mind of it's own ... "Use the manual", you say. We would if there was one. Enter the Internet. Not so fast on the assumed answer to the problem. After an hour of key tapping I found one for the washing machine - in English thank God. That mean our smalls and larges can be washed but what about the dishwasher? I think we'll resort to the old tried and tested method for the time being because it took nearly three hours to wash an experimental load on Eco - whatever that means ...

The underfloor heating manual is in English but I haven't had time to enroll at the university yet - I thought the course "Deciphering  Electrical Jargon for Idiots" seems appropriate. What is an "optional-selectable-circuit-linked-networked-isolated-area-pseudo-manual-thermostatic-sensor-timer-switch with automatic-sensor-override" anyway? I just want to turn the heating off ...

Just to confound the occupant the architect also included an air-recycling-extraction system. Yes, that's understandable since the huge windows are best kept closed - traffic noise as you would expect in the centre of a large city. But, there are four switches - two marked boost and the others discovered by experiment. No manual - I've figured it'll take a week or two to find out exactly how it all works.

I had fun taking the garbage to the bin locker which is in the basement. No problem; until I let the door on the locker close behind me. I needed the electronic key to re-open the door! After a second's thought I had the high-tec solution. Grab the handle, swear like a stoker and give the door an almighty heave - bingo! I escaped the clutches of the garbage monster ...

What's next ... stay tuned, we have to collect the post today (where is the dratted post box ... ?)

Back to S11

We moved into the flat without any fuss. A roast dinner and a kip started us on the road to de-jet-lag; I really dislike waking up at 5am thinking its breakfast time!

Enterprise car rental was as efficient as ever and we were on our way to Sleaford by lunch time Saturday. A couple of pints of good English ale while bro and I sat in the late afternoon sunshine at the local pub and we solved the problems of the world put me onto the road of recovery.


We had a really excellent w/e with sis and bro; too much food and loads of laughs. It felt as if we'd not been back to Oz for the past 8 months - that always surprises me. Sunday morning was taken up with fixing a computer; people WILL fiddle and press the wrong buttons ... I have to report that bro has probably infected me with a curiosity about golf ... where do I find the antidote?

Loading the car with our "things" we had a safe and pleasant trip back to the pad; except for a three roundabout intersection at Newark which bedevils even the locals! Yes, we went round the whole messy thing twice! It's the roads signs; they are hopeless! 

It took little time to unpack and poke "things" into their new resting places - finding them when we want them will prove, as always, to be a bit of a lottery until we get used to their hiding places. "Where's the ......?" "Don't ask me you stowed it away!

After shopping for the "odds-and-ends" that are always missing it was a delight to sit down to dinner and look out of the huge windows at Sheffield in the late evening sunshine. Very Lowry with a tough of Dr Who.

All in Twenty Four Hours

Taking the Keisei line from Ueno to Narita airport brought us to the airport in a packed one and a half hours. We'd checked in on the internet so it was a snip to off load cases and retire to the cafe for an extra breakfast. Flight JL 401 took off 5 mins late - that'll never do for the locals! Twelve hours of bordome later we landed at Heathrow - only 15 mins late. A quick hop on the hopper and we were safely tucked into our room at the Comfort hotel. A pint and a shower to revived spirits followed by a very tasty dinner ended a long day's travel. All went swimmingly so what's to moan about? Nowt!

Into beddy-bys and a comatose sleep - that is untill 4 am when our bio-clock decided to kick-in and tell us that is was really breakfast time. Ignoring the impulse to eat the oatmeal coloured bedspread we forced ourselves to go back to dream land.

A quick continental and a second hop on the hopper followed by an hour-and-ten on the Piccadilly line sufficed to deliver us to St Pancras (who?). Tickets for Sheffield dutifully printed out of the machine so we mounted the Midland Rail Iron Horse for a quick two and a half hours nursing our cases and bags - there was no adiquate luggage storage.

What a strange feeling being back in Sheffield. Have we been away? Doesn't feel like it. We were walking through the town centre and were hailed by Andrew (he of Andrew's Cafe); travel the world and be well know by cafe owners - what a reputaion! On to the hotel and establish camp - again.

What next? Surley it's obvious - supermarket (M&S) and buy dinner ...

Tokyo Metro, Temples and Electric City

After a slight panic at the Post Office - I  used the wrong pin for my card and thought we'd be cashless! A senior moment which I don't think I'll repeat - we got the Ginza Line to Suehirocho and hooffed it to  the Kanda Myojin Shrine. This proved to be a large and very active shrine which was winkled between the multi-storied buildings. There was a ceremony going on and it was interesting to hear and see two of the priests playing traditional Japanese wind instruments.

Wandering on to the Yushima Seido took 5 mins but it look closed. Wrong - the gate was around the corner hidden from our view by the public loo. It is extensive and is now a shrine dedicated to Confucius. It was originally a private school opened in 1630.

As we left Yushima Seito we could see the dome of  Nicholai-do which is a Russian Orthodox Church. Time and gasping for a coffee, we pressed on to Electric City where we had an appointment with Mr Donut who provided sustenance in the form a of a strawberry and cream namesake.

I had a bit of an electronic relapse and drooled over several Sony HDV newsmedia cameras, Casio language translation what's-its and stroked an iPad (several times ) ...

I dragged myself onto the Yamanote line and we stopped of at Ueno where we had a lovely meal of tempura, miso, rice, noodles and barley tea. Walking around we came across a temple we had no idea existed - it's slap-bang in the middle of a very busy shopping area where the streets are filled with stalls so it's like a street market. The Marishiten Tokudaiji is very active and the centre of a major festival which takes place in late July.

Time to head home meant a quick coffee at a Doufor cafe where the staff seem to have got to know what we want. That brought us to the end of  our last day in Tokyo - well nearly because we had to visit the super market to get some delicious food for dinner.

The final, final of the day - washing cloths and packing ....

Let's Take A Train Ride ...Again.

Just to do something a bit different we decided to take a tip to the Eastern Tama area which is just outside Tokyo to the west. Yes to the west; Tama is to the west but we went to it's east ...

It's a subway ride from Ueno on the Yamanote line to Tokyo station and then on to the Chuo line (Rapid Service) to Tachiwara. We thought we had to exit the subway at Tokyo station and buy a ticket for a JR line - a train ticket. Well no, that was where we made a slight error so that we only had a 190 Yen ticket which payed for the Yamanote subway - hope you are keeping up; there will be questions later ... Not to worry because there are Fare Adjustment machines; insert the ticket you have when you get where you want to be and pay the difference - no fuss; no drama.

At Tachiwara we caught the monorail to Takahata Fudo and then walked to the Takahata Fudoson temple where we wandered around the various buildings. Very peaceful and well used; it's always a surprise to step of a busy road into a quiet oasis.

Hunger began to gnaw and restaurants/cafes/eateries abound almost everywhere to sate said gnaw.

The eatery was inside the Keio Rail Station - not the JR Monorail we'd arrived by - so we took pot-luck to Fuchu to visit Ookunitama jinga shrine. This is one of, if not the, oldest of the Shinto shrines in the Tokyo area. Fuchu has a tree-lined street leading to the main gate of the shrine. The trees are huge and give the immediate area a really pleasant atmosphere.

Mid afternoon means coffee - air conditioned comfort and a little rest.

Time to head back to Tokyo. The Keio line took us back to Shinjuku but we made a silly mistake with the ticket so had to use the Fare Adjustment machine when we got there. A packed station didn't seem at all claustrophobic mainly because people don't push and shove or shout at each other. The last leg for the day meant the Yamanote line from Shinjuku to Ueno - packed train but air conditioned and quiet.

Home at last! I'll leave the next bit to your imagination ...

Monorail to Odaiba

A quick visit to the cafe - morning coffee - and onto Ueno to catch the Yamanote subway to Shimbashi. A quick change of train and a vista-rich run on the Yurikamome monorail took us to Tokyo Big Sight - a ginormous conference and exhibition centre. The whole of the Odaiba area is awash with fantastic modern architecture as well as the usual dock-side mess. Shops? Er, more than a shopperholic could cope with! Plus much, much, more including a wedding village, maritime museum (shaped like a ship!) and, most wierd, a sewer museum - honto!

We walked through the skyscrapers to Palette Town and ventured into Venus Fort - a three floor of every type of shop plus restaurants. Each floor is fashioned after a Italian street style with ceiling that have a sky-like quality. The lighting is such that you really begin to feel like you are walking down a street during late afternoon or early evening. There is even a real fountain in one of the larger "nodes". All very spaceship like or a film set.

Next to this monster shopping centre was the huge "Maga Web" Toyota car showroom and a gigantic Big Wheel.

Since it was Sunday the Anime and Manga people (Cosplay fashion) were out in force photographing each other. Quite a sight and each person must have spent hours and loads of yen getting the costumes they were wearing. It was difficult to tell if the boys were girls or t'other way around.

Catching the mono-rail back to Shimbashi allowed us to cool down and drop into a quick noodle shop for lunch. We hopped onto the subway to Roppongi but were disappointed by the park and an outbreak of Yankitis. So it was onto the Hibiya line for a restful trip back to Ueno.

End of the wandering for the day naturally meant - you guessed correctly - supermarket, food and beddy-byes.

Narita Gion Matsuri

It took about 1 hr 15 min in air conditioned comfort on the Keisei Line to go from Ueno to Narita city. The wall of heat (about 32 C) sort of hit us when we got off the train. We wandered into town and broke the first rule of the culturally aware traveler - MacDonnald's for a loo pit stop. I have to admit the coffee was OK but the loo came as a surprise. Let me explain ... Maccer's usually has a nice clean loo so we old crispies find it more pleasant than the usual grotty holes-in-the-ground that seem to plague most of the worlds public places. This Maccer's is in Japan so there is a little surprise in store for the unwary round-eye ... no not a squatter. A fully fledged, electronic throne! DON'T fiddle with the buttons unless you want to get soaked, de-odourised or hot-air-blown. I kid you not. Once, I had to search for the power socket to turn the thing off ... not a happy bunny at that point in time. Rested but definitely shaken and stirred!

Back to reality ...

We walked through the old town and had a quick look at the Shinshoji Temple. After watching a couple dashi (floats) being hauled up the hill we decided to have lunch. A very pleasant restaurant with loads of fans to cool us down. Tempura and cold noodles - excellent!

Late afternoon and a temperature in the high 30's persuaded us to retreat to the air conditioned train back to Ueno.

Last, and obviously, ... the supermarket for a health dinner.

Walking, Walking, Walking - Asakusa and Ueno

It's the Morning Glory Festival at Asakusa, so off we went, hot foot, to see the plants via a cafe - what else. Loads of people - naturally - and food stalls. All the plant stalls were loaded and it seemed the price was fix across the board.

Catch the Ginza Line metro to Ueno so we can wander the streets looking for - yes, you guessed right - lunch. Lovely tempura and cold sorba noodles. I desisted looking at the iPad again at the 6 floor electronics store opposite the station; buying "out of country" is a bit daft because, if there's a problem with the kit, service guarantees are often difficult to use even if the product has world-wide distribution; I made this mistake and didn't like the hassles.

On to the Tokyo Met only to find that it's closed for restoration until 2012. A quick glance at our well worn map showed that there were several temples in Taito-ku that we hadn't visited, so we legged it in their general direction. That proved to feel a lot further than it measured - aged limbs and a the need of coffee probably explained the dragging of feet.

Onward back to Ueno Park and a cafe of choice seemed to recharge feet batteries. A final sortie to the super market, where we were assaulted by heaps of delicious food, ended the day - a total of 5 hours hoofing in all. Temperature 28 C and 100% humidity with light, intermittent rain sort of oiled the limbs for the whole escapade!

Watercolours Everywhere

 We had a nice restful day just pottering from cafe to cafe via the odd shop - I do like iPads; must be loosing my  grip on my wallet! A visit to the Ueno Royal Museum which had a Tokyo waterclour exhibition - a huge number of paintings most of which were worth hanging; some traditional others contemporary in technique. A good few hours in the cool and looking at some really lovely works.

The vast sum of 160 Y took us by the Ginza Line to Asakusa where we indulged ourselves by visiting two super markets, buying enough grub for an army (a small private army of four) and - yes, we have no self control - a light repast at Mr Donut!

Now we are filled to the brim with fresh food and sashimi so it's time to turn on the lunatic Japanese TV and sit goggle-eyed wondering what the Devil we're watching ...

JAL Does It Again!

After a 4 AM start we had breakfast in the new terminal facilities - very nice architecture so it actually looks like an international terminal (at last). The aircraft took off exactly on time from Sydney and landed on the dot in Tokyo. We were suitably filled with food and drink - I do love Sake! A quick 55 min train ride in air conditioned comfort brought us to our favorite hotel - The Oak in Asakusa - well almost; it's a 10 min stroll from station to door.

What a welcome! The people on the desk greeted us like old friends ... that's the reason for sticking to somewhere you know that fits your bill. Temperature outside 26 C and light rain; inside a cool 21 C. Next stop the supermarket and loads of lovely nosh. And so to dream land ...

I watched "Battle of the Titans" and "Alice In Wonderland" on the flight and thoroughly enjoyed both - maybe it was the GnTs and Sake ...

10 - 9 - 8 - 7 - ...

Only a few days to go and mission control has begun the countdown sequence. Packing! Who do you know that likes packing? What to put in, on and out ... more angst ... but you know you want more ... That's the beauty of travelling it shakes the tree and gives the old brain a workout: "Did I redirect the mail? What about changing the insurances? Do we leave the water on? Have I got all the medications I need? Have I got enough foreign currency? Embrocation; where's the bottle of embrocation for my knees?... Why the devil am I doing this? ... Pass the whiskey please ..."

This is a test

test test test

Booking A Trip Sure Wears Me Out

So we decided to go to Strasbourg for a few days in August. Three hours later with the computer having apoplexy and sweat dripping from my fingers and brow, I managed to book everything. What with passwords for every site and booking payments I think I've covered every combination of birthdays, weddings and funerals plus dogs names and favourite teachers and school subjects I've ever known. That's the internet Freddy Boy; quick as a flash so long as you don't actually want to do something a bit complicated.  I think it's time for a little nap ...

What? There's No Butler!

By Jove, things have taken a queer turn. From hovel to the recognition we deserve - yes it's Bilton Manor. Being a Fitz has some compensations but there are some drawbacks - there is no butler! Well, we had to say no. Sorry, just couldn't take up residence without one. I say, it's just not done. What would the people at the hunt say. No. We will do the right thing and take up residence in a modest apartment adjacent to a high class purveyor of  quality victuals and fine wines. Between you and me, modern plumbing and under-floor heating has advantages that just can not be overlooked.

A Handyman's Project

All it needs is a lick of paint and a tidy-up. Situated in a quiet rural location this prime property only needs some TLC from a discerning tenant. Ideal for a holiday hide-a-way and priced to go. Don't miss this exceptional opportunity to experience a unique life-style.

I'm getting the a distinct feeling of PANIC!!

Anyone Got Space for a Small Tent?

We're beginning to panic a tad. No flat found to date, but the folk we're dealing with say there's no problem - yet. We've got a nice little Wendy House stored away so the last resort is to find space under a bush in the Botanic Gardens with the Homeless or, failing that, there's a nice park bench or two ...

Watch Out For The Extras!

I thought I'd have a qiz at flight availability EMA to Amsterdam in early August. Why? I received an email touting cheap flights with BMI and August is a birthday month. I started to get very excited and reached for my clogs, clay pipe and silly bargeman's hat. But, yes, you guessed it, then there's the extras. The initial return ticket price for 2 pax was less than 8 GBP. Add: taxes, seat allocation, 1 check-in bag, and insurance and the price came out at 165 GBP! We thought we'd forgo the priority boarding and use of the airport lounge facilities which would be another handful of shekels.This price was at least 80 GBP cheaper than over-the-counter prices.

So much for cheap flights. The Devil, as always, is in the detail; read small print ...

Soooo Boring Sydney

Oh dear I've committed sedition! That's if finding Sydney boring is the criterion - the trouble is we're not really Ozzers; we don't booze, do drugs or like sport. I've given up on the Oz theatre including film; it's supposed to be professional but I just can't see it ... something always seems to be lacking or maybe - and more likely - I'm not all that keen on year 12 humour and I've seen so much "Gay" stuff over too many years masquerading as entertainment to be even mildly shocked. As I say, Sydney seems so boring and it's getting scruffier each year.

We went to the Gal NSW to see Archibald et al and, honestly, the shows were poor. I suppose you have to take into account the desire to present something controversial but, really, there is so much of  not-leaving-your-mates-behind  that things get very stale. A few of the chosen portraits were excellent but the rest ... er ... crap. The Wynne had a couple of notable pieces and the Sulman was, as ever, a complete mystery - what were the selectors on? This was the Sulman winner. Explain it if you can. Still, it's all good for the arty-farty crowd I'm sure. The show at the Ervin gallery has some good work; much better than some of the stuff selected for the "real" shows.

Didn't see so many ugly, fat lessos in Newtown this time. Has there been a cull?

Tickets. Get Your Tickets Here!

That's done and dusted and we're a lot lighter in the purse. So it's off to Tokyo in July for all stations ... we still don't know!

Sydney ... not as exciting as ...

Up to Sydney for the w/e. Another painting delivered and expected to be reject by the dunks at the GNSW; got to be in it etc etc. Weather was disgusting - hot and steamy. I don't think I've seen so many grossly over weight, tattooed and unimaginably ugly people (sadly women) on the streets before. Must have be an ugly's convention in Newtown. Yes, I know it's not PC, Christian or "nice" to make such a comment but you had to be there to believe it was actually the case.

Best part was going to a small, noisy cafe which had excellent Italian food and a splendid Thai restaurant. Plus, a demonstration of Japanese wood block printing. The printer lives in Tokyo and has been printing wood blocks for over 50 year; he was expert!

Shifting Sands ...

All has changed ... the best laid etc ... so watch this space.

Planning, Planning ...

Plans so far:
The itinery for Italy looks like:

Venice (maybe not this year .. debate rages ...)
Vicenza
Ferrara
Bologna
Moderna
Reggio Emillia
Palma
Genoa

Which seems to me to be a delightful two/three week prospect.

Finding a furnished appartment in Sleaford seems to be almost impossible - we'll have to rent and buy a few sticks to fill the place ... or ...  it'll be Sheffield again - and the buses are free to old folk like me! That means we'll have weekend trips to Prague, Vienna and Amsterdam plus Delf - well it's only filthy lucre ...

Plus, the reason for being in England's green and pleasant, loads of outing to the Peaks and sundry cathedrals, churches, galleries, archaeological sites and such. All this and more. Don't forget there's the visits to Japan each way from Sydney to London.

I still need a project though ...

Oooo Er - Maybe It Is Time to Fly ...

I'm getting that itchy feeling again - in my feet! Keep those mucky thoughts to yourself! Where will it be this time? We'll travel at the beginning of July so I don't fancy sticky, hot weather in Japan, Korea or China which were on the list for the out-bound trip. Dubai equally too hot. America - you have to be joking! It looks like a couple of days in Narita village, just to break the flight to London or some other European city. Then, at least three months in the UK followed by one or two months wandering about Europe and Asia on the way back to Horsetraileeyor. Details about our flat in England are lacking 'cos it seems impossible to find one! So ... it mabe dear Sheffield yet again - ain't life hard for us old folk!